Expert Advice

Dark Drama: Emphasize Color Placement With a Handful of Foils

May 12, 2014 | 12:26 PM
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Salon professionals need to know they can count on a supply of quality, professional-grade products across the beauty spectrum—in hair, nails, make-up and accessories—just around the corner, whenever they might need them. That’s where Sandi Arensman comes in.

Arensman, a master colorist, former salon owner and NAHA-winning artist, is based in the SALLY Beauty Supply headquarters and support center in Denton, Texas. Her role is to test products and tools to make sure all meet salon professional performance standards and to develop techniques to deal with some of the most pressing salon situations.

“I have to know how these products are going to best serve the SALLY Beauty Supply customer,” says Arensman. “I test these products while applying to hair, using new, interesting as well as tried-and-true techniques.”

Arensman selected two models to showcase professional techniques and approaches to client challenges: xing home hair color gone awry and creating color and cut excitement. “The goal of this session is to demonstrate that SALLY Beauty has always committed to staying modern through 50 years of serving the professional,” says Jan Roberts, director of corporate communications, SALLY Beauty. "We are looking forward to the next 50!"

Here, Arensman discusses how to achieve her "Dark Drama" look.

“There is a lot of detail in this look,” Arensman says. “The cut is shaped to emphasize the color placement and to add detail. The color adds movement along the top within the fitted structure.” Although Arensman used just a handful of foils, there is powerful color impact. “The color is placed to follow the movement of the cut,” she says, “and you can create drama with proper placement.”


1. Begin with the cut. Using a razor, pull out one-inch diagonal sections from below the occipital, start texturizing.

2. Surface-cut down the sections to detail. Continue cutting to the nape.

3. Customize the nape to accentuate the neckline.

4. Work up the head, scooping up and out.

5. Define the line around the ear. Hold the ear forward. Take the toe of the razor and edge to detail.

6. Continue to scoop cut up along the sides to the top.

7. Direct the fringe forward and cut to create a slight angle.

8. Project sections from the top and cut to texturize. Blend back to the crown.

9. Blend Blond Brilliance Express Nine powder lightener with 25 volume developer. Pull wide but fine slices and place on foil. Apply from off-base to ends.

10. Feather the color to the base.

11. Color placed to accentuate the center of the center part. Process for 20 minutes. Shampoo, condition and tone with Blond Brilliance Misty Rose, a light pink shade, for 5 minutes.


Color and Lightener: Oil Crème Infusion Developer, Express Nine Level Powder Lightener

Toner: Blond Brilliance Perfect Blond Ammonia-Free Toners: Champagne, Golden Wheat, Misty Rose, Lilac Treatment: ION Color Brilliance After-Color Treatment

Stylers: Repair Solution Effective Care Restorative Finishing Spray, Pomade Wax, Dry Shampoo, Anti-Frizz Silicone Styling, Anti-Frizz Solutions Gel Styling Mist, Keratin Dry Oil Mist, Blow Dry Crème Serum, Sulfate-Free Shampoo, Medium Hold Finishing Spray, all by ION

Tools: Titanium Triple Barrel Waver, Pro Curling Iron 1” and 2”, Ion-Ceramic Tourmaline Dryer, all by ION Finishing Solutions

Foils: ION Color Brilliance Premium Professional foils 8x5


Brilliant Blonde: Banishing Home Hair Color Bands By Sally Beauty

Updated: 05/12/2014 11:29:00 AM
As part of its 50th anniversary celebration, SALLY Beauty commissioned editorial stylist Sandi Arensman to create a special occasion collection, including hair color how-to’s. Here she discusses how she created this brilliant blonde hair color.
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