HOW TO: Amber Waves, Found On Instagram
MODERN found Ruby Devine (yes, her real name) on instagram (@rubydevine). Her page is chock full of makeovers and beautiful finishes. Based at Frizzles Salon and Spa in Alexandria, Virginia, Devine is a Bumble and Bumble network educator and an admin on a forum that is exclusive for hairstylists and students, allowing her to do hair in one form or fashion seven days a week. "I love how the internet and social media allows us to reach such a broad spectrum of clients and industry alum," she says. "Being a hairdresser for me is fulfilling beyond words. I feel so grateful for being able to do what I love every day and support myself and my family."
There were many finishes that caught our eye, but the "Amber Waves" look is perfect for the summer and we wanted to know more. MODERN asked Devine for the HOW TO:
"This client has been a haircut client for years now, but never a color client. She has been box dying with a level 4 color every 4 weeks for as long as I’ve known her. As her grey has progressed, she wanted to go lighter to make her demarcation not so severe. She brought in an all over blonde picture, but was requesting highlights. I always do a very thorough consultation and take into consideration what the client is saying, but also taking into consideration the untold as well as her lifestyle, her choice of fashion, and of course her skin and eye color. She’s one of 'those clients' who like warmth, but is terrified of brassy. She was asking for multi dimension and that’s why she requested highlights. Knowing the unpredictability of box color I explained to her I could get the dimension she wanted with an all over process instead."
1. I chose VANISH ( www.colorvanish.com/ ) for my color remover. I clarified her hair and applied the VANSIH from newgroth to ends using a bottle for a quick application. I capped her and let process under heat for 20 minutes. We then rinsed her hair and shampooed with a clarifier making sure to scrub the hair to release the color molecules, then rinsing again for 5 minutes. This is very important for ALL color removers because the chemical action is to unlock the color bonds leaving the molecules unchained so they can be forced out of the hair. The SHAMPOO is the most important part. This brought here up to about a level 7.
2. Towel dried the hair and apply Goldwell’s Oxycure Platin and 10 volume developer. To insure a speedy application and even lift, I utilized an assistant to apply the lightener. Cap her again and let her process under a climazone for 10 minutes. This brought her up to a really nice level 9 but still with a lot of warmth.
3. Apply Wella’s illumina color 1 part 10/69 with 1 part 8/ mixed with the pastel developer. I knew this would give me a little more budge to the existing level and leave a really pretty controlled amber tone. I processed her for an additional 10 minutes at room temperature.
4. Rinse out the Illumina and apply Wella’s post color treatment to stop all processing and bring back down the Ph of the hair. Let the post color treatment sit for 5 minutes at the shampoo bowl and then rinsed and conditioned the hair as usual.
I gave her a refresh on her cut and blew out her hair revealing the unbelievable shine and health that remained even after such vigorous processing.
Maintenance: She will now be able to wait 5-6 weeks before her next touch up. At that point I will be able to use the same formula as her toner but mixed 1:1 ratio with 30 volume to retouch just her new growth.