Expert Advice

Toned Down: Color That Wows But Doesn't Steal the Spotlight

Maggie Mulhern | July 2, 2014 | 1:02 PM
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When a client comes in looking for a change, that “change” doesn’t always have to be grand to make a big difference. Sometimes it’s as simple as adding a face frame, a few well-placed highlights or an overall color adjustment.

Adjusting hair color has become a specialty of Rebecca Gregory, Technical and Education Director for Organic Salon Systems. Although Gregory is an expert at dramatic makeovers, she also loves to tweak color to bring out the best in the client: her face, body, lifestyle and, of course, hair. For this model, Gregory wanted to introduce a copper and gold medley to her over-processed, flat, almost-platinum blonde. “A warmer, more wearable shade would better suit her skin tone and would better maintain the integrity of her hair,” Gregory says. “It’s great to correct her color and fill over-processed blonde into something more balanced and gorgeous.”

"Platinum can be too strong for some clients. A simple 'taking it down a notch' can make all the difference in the world." --Rebecca Gregory

The challenge, according to Gregory, is usually filling the hair. “We are filling in the transition,” she says. “Should she want to go darker, her colorist does not need to fill again. This color, through product and color selection, is balanced all in one step. The resulting color has more shine reflection and dimension.” After color, Gregory is always thrilled to hand her model over to Jennifer Andrews, Organic Salon Systems Creative Director, to add the perfect shape to enhance the color. A simple trim coupled with elegant styling created a look better suited to the model’s face, hair and lifestyle.


Section the hair as shown with a thin triangle across the parting, approximately 1 inch back from the hairline. Three small triangles, dropped to surround first triangle, are isolated.

2. Mix Organic Color Systems: ¾ oz 8 with ¼ oz 6TO with ¼ oz Silver Concentrate and 1¼ oz 10-volume cream developer to create a natural caramel beige. Apply to new growth.

3. To the lengths apply 1 oz 8CA, 1 oz 8CR, 1 oz 9GD with 3 ozs cream developer. This creates a caramel gold.

4. Now go to triangles. Begin slicing within the section. In the purple foils apply the lighter shade, a golden pearl: 1 oz 10GD, 1 oz Naturlite Oil and ¼ oz 11HS with 2 ¼ oz 10-volume cream developer. Apply from base to ends.

5. In green foils apply a golden copper: ¾ oz 8CA, ¾ oz 7CR, ¾ oz 8GD, and ¼ oz gold concentrate, blended with 2½ oz 10-volume cream developer.

6. In the top diamond alternate the two shades.

7. Foils are placed as shown.

8. Cover hair with a plastic cap.

9. Place under medium heat for 10–15 minutes, then cool for 10 minutes. Shampoo, condition and style.



Color: Organic Color Systems

Shampoo and conditioner: Organic Power Build System.

Organic Care Products: Volume Mousse, Shape, Control, Thermal2Twenty

Blow dryer: ItaliaBRAVA from BaBylissPRO

Foils and gloves: Product Club

Cosmetic brushes: Tweezerman and Elaina Badro

Nail color: OPI, In The Cable Carpool Line

Lip color: Mirabella

Blush: Jane Iredale

Fashion: H&M Conscious Collection; Chanel; Kate Spade




Hair: Rebecca Gregory and Jennifer Andrews

Photography: Roberto Ligresti

Make-up: David Maderich

Fashion styling: Rod Novoa assisted by Dennis Pinto

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