How To Winterize a Summer Blonde: Babylights with Reverse Balayage using Redken pH Bonder
“This is the longest I’ve ever gone without getting it colored,” she says. “I’ve been this summer, beach-y golden blonde for a long time and it’s time to transition into more of a fall/winter blonde. At the bottom it’s really monotone, and I really want to break it up.”
When MODERN got the news that Redken was launching its pH Bonder system, we knew we wanted to see it in action—so we scouted out Logan Parlor salon in Chicago for a detailed step-by-step that uses the three components of pH Bonder throughout the service.
Logan Parlor’s Jillian Bono was the perfect colorist to show us how it works and walk us through her favorite babylights technique using Redken Shades EQ and Blonde Dimensions powder lightener since she’s a Redken artist and educator, has been using Redken color for 13 years and regularly attends education at The Redken Exchange in New York City.
We needed a model, and lucky for us Redken’s PR manager Kyle Yurchik needed a refresh to her color before Symposium—Redken’s annual networking event in Las Vegas in January 2017, who last colored her hair at the end of June—five months ago.
“This is the longest I’ve ever gone without getting it colored,” Yurchik says. “I’ve been this summer, beach-y golden blonde for a long time and it’s time to transition into more of a fall/winter blonde. At the bottom it’s really monotone, and I really want to break it up.”
Yurchik made the perfect model for this service to demonstrate the beauty of Redken’s new pH Bonder because although she isn’t frequently coloring her hair, living in New York City means she’s walking outside a lot with exposure to the sun and city elements—plus thermal damage from regular use of a curling wand or flatiron. So with protection and hair health being the two key benefits of the additive, she was all in.
The pH Bonder is available in a kit, and contains the system’s three components: #1 Bond Protecting Additive; #2 Fiber Restorative Pre-Wash Concentrate; and #3 Post-Service Perfector. During the in-salon service, a colorist’s first step is to add #1 directly into the formula. Once the hair color has been processed and rinsed, #2 is applied at the bowl and processed 10 minutes to restore the hair fiber and smooth the hair’s cuticle for strength, shine and softness. The third component is #3 a once-a-week pre-shampoo treatment designed for clients to maintain the hair’s natural pH at home.
“This is a babylights story,” Bono says. “Because her ends are so light already we are adding back in that shadowing at the base do create sort of a reverse balayage by pulling the lightness back up to her base, and also adding a shadow root with Shades EQ gloss in between the foils.”
The pH Bonder will be added into the high-lift color formula, the lightener and the glaze.
Natural Level 7
High-lift color: 1/2 oz NA Blonde Idol with 1 oz 30-Volume Pro-Oxide developer. Mix well, and then add in 3 mL Redken #1 Bond Protecting Additive
Lightener: 2 scoops of Redken Blonde Dimensions powder lightener + 2 oz of 20-Volume developer. Whisk together, and then add in 8 mL Redken pH Bonder
Shadow root: Equal parts 07WN (warm natural) Shades EQ Cream, with a ribbon of 05WB (warm beige) for depth + 10-Volume developer.
Glaze A: ¼ oz 09NB + 1 oz clear of Shades EQ gloss with equal parts processing solution. Mix well, then add in 4 mL of Redken #1 Bond Protecting Additive
Glaze B: ¼ oz 09V + 1 oz clear of Shades EQ gloss with equal parts processing solution. Mix well, then add in 4 mL of Redken #1 Bond Protecting Additive