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HOW TO: Hi and Lo Lights To Reach The Perfect Blonde

Maggie Mulhern | September 3, 2014 | 6:00 AM

This transformation by Camille Plourde @hairbycamillegp of Hair, Fairfield, Ct received so much love that we contacted her to get the details. Share she did:

Sarah is a natural level 6 base. I base break her first to shift her base a 1/2 shade and bring out a little warmth. I applied this in a bottle, for speed, and on all her roots. Once applied I immediately washed it out with one light shampoo.  The trick with doing a base break is timing it needs to be done quickly so it doesn't lift too much. I love base breaks..I have a lot of clients that come in between their hilight appointments just to brighten their base a bit. It buys them more time and brings out the highlights again!  The appointment time is 15 minutes so they love that they are in and out so fast and their color is refreshed!  

After I did the one light shampoo I brought Sarah back to my chair, combed her out and dried her slightly to more of a towel dried feel to her hair. Now I'm ready to apply her hilights and lolights.  For the hilight I used L'Oreal Platine Precision and 40vol developer mixed in equal parts.  The lolight is Logics Imprints 8n sheer equal parts with 10g sheer and 5vol developer.  I sectioned out in bigger panels and surfaced painted on the hilight then in between I softly brushed in the lolight color.  I used a V pattern and brought the lightener to the ends.  Sarah likes a soft ombre (Sombre) look.  I did the same through out her hair...using bigger panels the entire time.  The reason I did this on her hair when towel dried is I find the water helps to protect the ends.  Her hair was already pretty light on the bottom. Also I use my gloved hands a lot to blend the lightener and the lolight together so that the result is seamless and not spotty.  The hilights and lolights processed for 20mins.  No gloss at end just blow dried and beach waved with an iron.

Step 1: Break the base with Logics Colorcremes equal parts 8n + 8v blended with 20 volume developer. Apply to roots using a bottle for faster application.

Step 2: Process for 5 minues and then shampoo lightly. This goes on and off quickly just to bring a bit of warmth to her natural shade. Rinse thorougly.

Step 3: Hand paint the highlighting formula to towel dried hair: L'Oreal Platine Precision with 40 volume developer. Apply in V shape to the surface in large panels.

Step 4: In between softly brush in lowlights with Logics Imprints 8n Sheer + 10 g Sheer with 5 volume developer.

Step 5: Process for 20 minutes at room temperature. No gloss is needed.

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