HOW TO: From Uneven Yellow To Icy Blonde

Maggie Mulhern | September 9, 2014 | 7:15 PM
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One of MODERN's favorite colorists did it again! Cassandra McGlaughlin (@cassandraplatinum) is the queen of blonde. When we spotted this makeover we just had to learn more from this Florida based Paul Mitchell educator.

"This guest came in looking for an even icy blonde, without an overly ashy tone," says McGlaughlin. "She had a very small amount of her natural level 5 regrowth and the rest was previously lightened and incredibly uneven. There were some compromised areas so I knew I needed to lighten with caution. The main challenge was the light 2-inch band of pale yellow right from her regrowth to right below the parietal ridge. I had to avoid lightening this section until the very end because it was already significantly lighter than the rest of her hair." Here she offers the HOW TO:

Step 1: Begin the lightening on the darkest, warmest portion of the hair shaft. Apply Paul Mitchell SynchroLift and 20 Volume. McGlaughlin uses the Platinum Card Technique which involves foil packeting each individual section. Start at the nape and work toward the top.  Lift to a level 9.

Step 2: Using SynchroLift and 20 volume, retouch the natural regrowth, approximately ¼ of an inch. "I had use extreme caution not to overlap onto the previous lightened areas." Process to level 9. 

Step 3: Once both sections reach a true level 9, remove all foils.  Blend 1oz  Paul Mitchell Shampoo One into the remaining SynchroLift and 20 volume and apply to the regrowth area to where section one started to marry all the sections together. Process to the palest yellow.

Step 4: Tone with Paul Mitchell UltraToners in Platinum and Neutral Beige, equal parts. "PM Ultra toners live at a level 11, so in order to get a pure, clean tone, I have to have my canvas lifted to a true level 11. The combo the P and NB makes the softest, coolest Platinum Blonde. I adjust my ration of P to NB based off of how much yellow value is present."

Step 5: Topcoat with PM shines 9v and clear, equal parts.  Follow with an Awapuhi Wild Ginger Keritriplx Treatment.

Step 6: Finish and smooth with the new Neuro Smooth.

Maintenance: Platinum Card retouch at 5 weeks and Pm Shines Topcoat

Take Home: Forever Blonde Shampoo and Conditioner and Dramatic Repair

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