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Correct Overgrown Color: Three-Step Process

Chandler Rollins | August 20, 2014 | 11:03 AM
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This guests goal was to get as light and even as possible. She had a had previous retouches of overlapped level 4 professional color and about 1"of natural level 7 regrowth. Her ends were previously lightened. The main challenge was dealing with such a dark canvas in between 2 significantly lighter canvases. If I lightened them all at the same time it would remain super uneven. So timing was super important.  

1. Address the level 4 previous color. I used Paul Mitchell Synchrolift and 25 volume in foils, avoid the lighter ends and natural growth  (see picture) Let process to level eight then go back through and touch natural color with Synchrolift and 20 volume on scalp. 2. Let process until the natural has lifted to a level 9 (see 3rd picture) 

3.  Rinse and shampoo with Paul Mitchell Post Color Shampoo. On damp hair, apply  a lower volume developer Color Balance formula (equal parts Synchrolift, 10 volume and Shampoo One) on midshaft to ends. Let process until canvas is an even level 10. 

4.  Now, with a much more even canvas I was able to use a dimensional color to visually break up any visual warmth left from the previous color. I went in with a highlight of a large panels of Paul Mitchell Lighten Up lighting paste  and 5 volume. Outside the foils I applied PM shines 9n9a9v scalp to ends. Toned the highlights with UTA UTP. Finish with an Awapuhi Kertriplex treatment. Styled with a Paul Mitchell Neuro Smooth.  

What do you do when a guest walks into your salon with an overgrown, stripey dye job and requests to go silvery-white blonde? Many of us would walk away in horror, but Cassandra McGlaughlin aka @CassandraPlatinum, a Paul Mitchell Educator and Director of Platinum Salon in Tampa, Florida is always up for a challenge.

"This guest's goal was to get as light and even as possible," McGlaughlin says. "She had previous retouches of overlapping level 4 professional color and about 1"of natural level 7 regrowth. Her ends were previously lightened." McGlaughlin explains the biggest challenge was dealing with a dark canvas in between two significantly lighter canvases. "If I lightened them all at the same time it would've remained uneven, therefore timing was super important." She achieved the final look with a four hour, three-step process outlined below.

GOAL COLOR: Silver White Blonde

STEP ONE: To address the previous level 4 color, I used Paul Mitchell Synchrolift and 25 volume in foils, avoiding the lighter ends and natural growth. Process to a level 8 then go back through and touch natural color with Synchrolift and 20 volume on scalp. 

STEP TWO: Process until the natural color has lifted to a level 9.

STEP THREE: Rinse and shampoo with Paul Mitchell Post Color Shampoo. On damp hair, apply a lower volume developer Color Balance formula (equal parts Synchrolift, 10 volume and Shampoo One) on mid-shaft to ends. Process until canvas is at an even level 10. 

STEP FOUR: Now, with a much more even canvas I was able to use a dimensional color to visually break up any visual warmth left from the previous color. I went in with large panels of  Paul Mitchell's Lighten Up lighting paste and 5 volume. Outside of the foils, I applied PM shines 9n9a9v scalp to ends. Next, I toned the highlights with UTA UTP. Finish with an Awapuhi Kertriplex treatment. Styled with Paul Mitchell Neuro Smooth. 

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