Managing Color Expectations: Going Vibrant

Over the past few years, vibrant color has jumped from the pages of Instagram and gone more mainstream. From celebrity-inspired looks to a range of new color technology and more, you likely have more clients requesting a vibrant whole-head look or just some fun party pieces. But it’s important to remember when doing so, it must be done carefully and correctly.

Before applying all the shades of the rainbow, hair must be lightened. Renee Valerie, TIGIU.S. technical education director uses TIGI Copyright Colour True Light White because it has chamomile, sugar crystals and amino acids to help maintain the integrity of hair while lightening.

“Bed Head Colour Trip is my go-to semipermanent for the vibrant shades,” she says. “With coconut oil and hydrolyzed keratin in the formula, it helps the overall condition of the hair while delivering vibrant results.”

But first, she says colorists must carry out texture, porosity and elasticity tests to make sure hair can handle the lightening process. If the client has virgin hair the process will be more predictable.

“When there is a chemical history present on the hair, I recommend educating the client on the process necessary to achieve such colors,” Valerie says. “Making sure the client understands it can take multiple appointments to achieve the desired result is extremely important, as the integrity of the hair is paramount to the color looking its best.”

With such a major change, she also recommends a thorough consultation.

“In the consultation, you should be able to determine the client’s personality/comfort zone and what will flatter their complexion and skin tone the most,” she says.

Matt Swinney, the NAHA 2017 Haircolor of the Year award winner and owner of Evolution in Minneapolis, says his go-to for vibrant shades is L’anza’s Vibes.

“You have to get hair to a level 9 or 10 before you can use bright shades,” he says. “To do that and keep hair healthy, we use L’anza’s Trauma Treatment deep conditioning treatment first and finish the service with
L’anza Keratin Healing Oil Emergency Service.”

More often than not, his clients who crave a little color are after just a splash rather than the whole head. And that can be for anyone—not just 20-somethings.

“The nice thing about older women who want something different is I’m able to give them just a splash of turquoise in gray/silver hair,” he says.

SERVICE STATS:
AT-HOME MAINTENANCE: Swinney recommends a color-care shampoo and conditioner, but more importantly, he says clients should only be washing once a week to keep the shades vibrant.
APPOINTMENTS NEEDED TO ACHIEVE DESIRED RESULT: It depends on the client’s existing level and the chemical history of the hair.
TIPS ON PRICING: Start with a base price based on your time, skill and area you live. From there, have an hourly rate or percentage you add on.
FREQUENCY OF VISITS TO MAINTAIN THIS LOOK: “Every four weeks if the client wants it to be what it looked like when she walked out of the salon,” Swinney says. “The maintenance appointments are much easier/quicker than the original service.” 

Valerie agrees clients will need to come in often to maintain vibrant shades.

“These are high-maintenance colors,” she says. “You could see a client every two to six weeks depending on how often they shampoo or if they are open to their color evolving (while it fades) or not.”