HOW-TO: Pink, Magenta and Purple Sponge Color
Pink, Magenta & Purple Sponge Color by Ricardo Santiago
Colortrak partnered with Joico and Colortrak Brand Ambassador Ricardo Santiago to create the Joico Color Intensity Artistry Kit, which includes a few of his favorite tools used to create his trademark techniques.
The kit includes Colortrak Meche and Spongelight Applicators, as well as Joico’s best and brightest colorist essentials.
The kit is available December 2017 at the following stores, while supplies last: CosmoProf, Armstrong McCall, Salon Centric, State RDA, Paramount, Elite, WS Beauty, Cook Beauty, Salon Centric (NJ only, check with participating stores), State Beauty Supply and RDA Pro-Mart (Texas only).
Available in 5” x 12” and 5” x 16”, Colortrak Meche are lightweight, pre-cut sheets ideal for free-hand coloring techniques. They make sectioning much easier and are conveniently packaged in dispenser box. Ricardo likes Meche because it helps him visually organize his color placement and prevent dye from bleeding between sections.
Colortrak Spongelight Applicators are reusable sponges that allows for flexible hair color saturation and quick application. They easily fit in the hand and allow stylists to have more control over haircoloring. Santiago likes Spongelights because they “blur” the transition points between shades and help create seamless balayages.
That's not all! We have a pink, purple and magenta sponge color how-to for you (created by Santiago!)
Products used: Colortrak Professional Haircoloring Meche, Colortrak Spongelights, Joico Intensities
FORMULA A: (Shadow Root) Pink, Soft Pink, Magenta, and Hot Pink
FORMULA B: (Mids-to-Ends) 5 Parts Clear +1 Part Formula A
SPONGE TECHNIQUE FORMULA:
FORMULA A: (Sponge Color-Lights) Pink, Soft Pink, Magenta, and Hot Pink
FORMULA C: Cobalt Blue
FORMULA D: Amethyst + Light Purple
FORMULA E: True Blue
FORMULA F: Orchid
FORMULA G: Titanium + Sapphire Blue
STEP 1: ROOT (BASE) RETOUCH
- Begin by dividing the hair into Quadrants
- *Secure each section using Colortrak Crocodile Clips
- Using Joico Crème Lightener + 20 Volume and a Colortrak Featherbrush, begin base retouch application. Colortrak’s Feather Brush allows me to work with precision and control, so as to be able to apply without overlapping previously lightened hair. Once application is complete, apply a processing cap and allow to process for 60 minutes.
- Shampoo using Joico KPak Clarifying Shampoo and condition using Joico Luster Lock, rinse thoroughly.
- I chose Joico Crème Lightener because it is more gentle on the scalp and offers plenty of lift.
- Because the roots were so grown out, I went back through and retouched the second half inch-to-1 inch of hair from the scalp, for a total process time of 60 minutes.
- I strategically did not tone her hair, but rather, chose to use the tones that she had from mids-to-ends and what she lifted up to, to better ‘grab’ on to the warm tones of the pink and create a vibrant-neon effect at the root and a softer, pastel effect throughout.
STEP TWO: SHADOW ROOT+TRADITIONAL (BASECOAT)
- Again, working in Quadrants, I begin applying a Shadow Root (Formula A) beginning at the nape area, working through each Quadrant, taking diagonal back slices.
- *I like to apply my Joico Intensity Color(s) to slightly damp, mostly dry hair
- Using my Colortrak Featherbrush allows me to easily apply and evenly saturate, as well as create a soft transition for the next color(s).
- Just like traditional Wall Sponge-Painting, I need to lay down my ‘Base Coat’. To do that, using Formula B, I begin to paint into Formula A, from the Shadow Root down to the ends, using my fingertips (covered by Colortrak XL Vinyl Gloves) and Featherbrush. As I work down the hair, I ‘scissor’ blend Formula A + Formula B together to create a seamless transition and massage the color into the hair to ensure complete and even saturation, creating consistent full-coverage color.
STEP THREE: PAINTING WITH SPONGES
I chose to add in some fun and convertible dimension with two techniques, utilizing Colortrak Sponges. The result is a wearable, artistic color that can be concealed for a classic, soft look or exposed with a simple change of the hair parting, to reveal an artistic edge.
Sponge Technique 1: ‘Sponge Color-Lights’ (think of Balayage, but with color)
- For this Technique, use your Colortrak Spongelights as is.
- Apply color of choice, to the tip of your spongelights (for me, Formulas C, D, E, F, G) and apply using ‘V’ painting application, as you would with lightener, when doing Balayage. The goal is to create dimensional color without any lines or hard transitions. Because you are applying over already placed color (choose wisely), choose color that is darker.
Sponge Technique 2: Sponge-Painting (think of at-home wall painting)
- For this Technique, create various-sized divots in your Colortrak Spongelights, by simply pinching and ripping off small segments, or cutting with the tip of a pair of scissors. Your end result will look like a piece of Swiss Cheese!
- Apply color of choice, to the entire sponge (for me, Formulas C, D, E, F, G) by dipping one side of your sponge into your bowl of color. I applied one color per spongelight, but feel free to apply multiple colors or use the same sponge. Your spongelight should have uneven amounts of color loaded per dip, because of the divots you created. The divots help to distribute the color with a unique pattern. To apply, simply stamp the spongelight down and blot the hair, down the entire length of the panel of hair.
Time to Paint!
- While still working in the Quadrants, begin applying Sponge Technique #1, by taking diagonal slices. Feel free to alternate diagonal and horizontal slices for maximum exposure for each panel.
- *I avoided applying Sponge Technique #2 to the top layer in order to make the color ‘Convertible’, meaning the artistic look could be covered or concealed, allowing for a more traditional look.
- For each panel you paint, begin by placing a Colortrak Meche (available in two sizes) under the panel of hair. This will serve as a ‘surface’ to paint on and keeps each section clean.
- For each panel, alternate your Sponge Techniques and your colors. Once you finish a panel, cover (each panel) with a fresh piece of Colortrak Meche and press gently to secure.
- For each Quadrant, I chose to place to at least 4 to 5 panels, alternating the effects of the color.
- Once all color has been applied, allow to process 25 minutes, then rinse in cold water. *No need to shampoo as hair was washed in previous steps
Get more information about the Joico Color Intensity Artistry Kit.