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HOW-TO: Cherry Red Balayage

June 12, 2018 | 9:00 AM
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The new, advanced red dye technology in Color Lacquers features smaller molecules which means your reds with be more vibrant and longer-lasting.

 

Natural Level: 4

FORMULA 1: ZONE 1

1 oz. Color Gels Lacquers 4RR

+ 1 oz. Color Gels Lacquers 6RR

+ 2 oz. 20 vol. Pro-oxide Cream Developer

FORMULA 2: ZONE 2 & 3

1 oz. Shades EQ Gloss 06RR*

+ 1 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution

for Precision Application

FORMULA 3

1 oz. Flash Lift

+ 1 oz. 30 vol. Pro-oxide Cream Developer

+ 4 ml. pH-Bonder

FORMULA 4: GLAZE

1 oz. Shades EQ Gloss 07RR

+ 1 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution

 

SECTIONING: BASE COLOR

  • Divide the left side of the head from the right.
  • Divide the back from the front with a vertical line from the highest point of the head to the back of the ear.

STEP 1: BASE COLOR

Apply Formula 1 to Zone 1. Immediately after apply Formula 2 to Zone 2 + 3. Process for 30 minutes. Shampoo and Rinse with Color Extend Magnetics. Dry hair.

 

SECTIONING: BALAYAGE

  • Working from the top down, create 3 tiers of triangle shaped sections. Find the part line, and comb hair into natural fall.
  • Start the first tier on top at the hairline and create a large inverted triangle section approximately 2 ½-inch wide and 1 ½-inch deep. Create another triangle next to that. Repeat on the opposite side.
  • Second tier. Using a brick-lay method, create a new triangle starting in the middle of the first triangle above and ending in the middle of the second triangle. Continue to create triangle sections using the middle of the triangle above as a guide. Complete tier.
  • The last tier of triangles is placed brick-lay method between the triangles from the sections above.

STEP 2: BALAYAGE

  • Start with the top right triangle nearest the face and hold section approx. 3–4 inches from the scalp. Pinch the section flat with an elevation above 90°.
  • Apply Formula 3 to the surface with a gentle sweep and begin making a soft diagonal back point of light.
  • On the edge closest to the face, extend the line of application slightly closer to the scalp. Continue to apply Formula 3 using soft, gentle strokes further down the mid-shaft. As you move down the section, begin to lower the elevation, making sure to maintain tension. Once you reach the elevation below 90°, recharge your brush with Formula 3 and place the Redken Balayage Paddle under the section. Apply Formula 3 through the lengths of the hair. Be sure to saturate the ends thoroughly, making sure both the top and underside of the section are completely saturated. Place a small piece of cotton on the underside before releasing section.
  • Repeat on opposite side using the same diagonal back point of light saturation, and complete all top tier triangles.
  • Starting in the second tier of triangles, pinch flat to hold each section at an elevation above 90° and saturate creating an inverted V point of light with the saturation in the center moving closer to the scalp. Using the same soft, gentle sweeping stroke, gently lower the elevation below 90° as you continue to move further through Zone 2, the mid-shaft. Place Balayage Paddle to saturate the ends thoroughly. Place cotton and release. Complete all triangles in Tier 2.
  • Using the same elevation and application method as in previous triangles, saturate tier 3 triangles using a V-shape point of light. Complete all triangles in tier 3.
  • Process until orange. Do not use heat. Shampoo with Redken Color Extend Magnetics. Condition with Color Extend Magnetics Conditioner.
  • Dry hair and apply Formula 4: Gloss. Process for 20 minutes. Shampoo and Condition with Color Extend Magnetics.
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