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HOW-TO: Muted Pastel Highlights from Paul Mitchell

July 16, 2018 | 6:50 AM
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Mix five shades in separate bowls. Formulas below.
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1. Start in nape. Take ½-inch slices from an inverted V section. Using Paul Mitchell Skylight lightener with 40-volume developer, paint the ends
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2. Feather up to the new growth.
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3. Separate sections with a low light. Using Paul Mitchell The Demi 8PA with processing lotion, apply from base to ends.
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4. Continue to alternate throughout, and process for 30 minutes. Shampoo, condition and dry hair.
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5. Color melt the five formulas (see box) throughout. In some sections the shades will overlap and in others the color will have a line of demarcation. Alternate, keeping the blonde out of every other section.
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6. Apply color by eye in a fashion and “spot” placement.
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7. Continue application throughout in this manner. Process 10 minutes and rinse.
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8. Begin the cut in the back. Take 1-inch diagonal sections to mimic the cutting line. Work up the head to the guide, point cutting to soften ends.
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9. Blend in to the side leaving the front slightly longer.
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10. Take triangular sections in the back, cutting to leave length toward the face. Elevate to follow the shape of the head. Utilize the existing face frame and fringe.
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Color: Colin Caruso, Paul Mitchell Artistic Director of Color Cut: Michael Depinto, Master Stylist, Salon Caru, Hoboken, NJ Photographer: Roberto Ligresti Makeup: David Maderich for MAC Cosmetics Fashion stylist: Rod Novoa

Is fashion color on the way out? With the ability to offer new delivery systems, fresh shades and gentle pastel hues, the “ontrend” client has more ways than ever to express herself.

Colin Caruso, Paul Mitchell artistic director of color, is having a love affair with balayage and pastel fashion shades.

“Balayage is not going anywhere,” he says. “It’s on-trend, but it is a technique that makes so much sense. Clients love the look, and it offers the opportunity for a colorist to show true artistic skill.”

Caruso says clients want lived-in color, but they also want it fresh.

“It sounds like a conflict, but it is not, and it can be delivered through balayage,” says Caruso, who uses balayage to brighten and lift color, allowing softerlooking regrowth and lighter ends. For this session, Caruso points out that “what you don’t paint is as important as what you do paint.” The artist has been playing with Paul Mitchell Color Craft, a customizable conditioning color.

“It’s perfect for guests who want to try pastels but don’t want to commit,” Caruso says. “It’s temporary and dilutes quickly, and the perfect solution for guests who get bored. Keep them excited and interested—even with just one little pop of color.”

Michael Depinto, a master stylist at Salon Caru, Caruso’s Hoboken, New Jersey salon, says the goal with the
model’s cut was to create a triangular bob.

“This silhouette is perfect for her face shape,” Depinto says. “It’s versatile, a shape you can dress up or dress down.” Depinto chose to point cut throughout to create more texture and soften ends.

FORMULAS:

Formula 1: 20 g Color Craft Conditioner and
10 pumps Honeycomb, 2 pump Lapis.

Formula 2: 20 g Color Craft Conditioner,
6 pumps Lapis, one pump Paprika.

Formula 3: 20 g Color Craft Conditioner,
8 pumps Misty Violet, 1 pump Lapis.

Formula 4: 20 g Color Craft Conditioner with
1 pump Paprika, 8 pumps Misty Violet, 1 pump Lapis
and 2 pumps Ash Walnut.

Formula 5: 40 g Color Craft Conditioner,
3 pumps Paprika, 1 pump Misty Violet.

PRODUCTS & TOOLS
Color: Paul Mitchell Color Craft
Lightener: Paul Mitchell Blonde Skylight Hand-Painting Clay Lightener; Paul Mitchell The Demi
Shampoo and conditioner: Paul Mitchell Forever Blonde
Stylers: Awapuhi Wild Ginger Texturizing Sea Spray; Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum and Worked Up Hairspray
Shears: Mizutani
Blow dryer: Paul Mitchell Neuro Halo Dryer
Flat iron: Paul Mitchell Neuro Halo 1-inch Styling Iron
Brushes: Paul Mitchell 413 Sculpting Brush
Fashions: Topshop

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