Men’s How-To: Disconnected Textured Taper
This haircut is the perfect shape for most guys. The sides and back are tight without much scalp exposure, while the texturized, disconnected top section gives him something to play around with. Using razor techniques on the lengths, Sport Clips Artistic Team Member Erin Smith creates a versatile shape that can be worn smooth, pieced-out or slicked back. Watch her do her all-purpose cut, including a shape-up for a second-day stubble. Then scroll down for some words of wisdom on executing flawless men’s looks.
Sport Clips How-To: Men’s Disconnected Textured Taper
SPORT CLIPS’ ERIN SMITH TAKES ON YOUR MEN’S HAIR FAQs
What are some of your best tips for clipper-over-comb?
When using clipper-over-comb to blend hair, be sure to angle the comb slightly. This will prevent heavy areas. Also, be sure the hand holding the comb is firmly anchored. This keeps you from pushing the comb into the head, which can lead to shorter areas or holes in the haircut.
What’s the best way to work around the ear?
There are a few ways. If the hair is longer, simply cut around the ear with your shears. If it’s a short haircut or taper you could use your trimmers or clipper. Angle the tool, using just the corner of the blade. Whichever technique you choose, work upward toward the top of the ear. Start from the back of the ear and work to the top then switch to the front of the ear and work to the top. Remember that the ear will bend, so don’t hesitate to push it out of the way to get your tool behind the ear.
What’s your best advice for executing fades?
When fading, use a light touch. Never dig your clippers in toward the head. I like to fade downward, starting with my longest guard, and work my way down to the shortest length.
What are your tips for speeding up men’s haircuts to be more efficient?
Use clipper-over-comb to blend or fade. Don’t move on to the next section of hair until you are completely happy with the current section. This will prevent the need to go back through the haircut to fix or touch up areas you’ve already completed.
What are your must-have shear types and sizes for men’s cuts?
My go-to shear is the BMAC 5.5-inch Stiletto. I also enjoy using the Mamba texturizing shear by Hattori Hanzo.
What are some ways to finish a guy’s hair so it looks polished but not too “done?”
I’d use a product with a matte finish. To style I’d encourage my client to use his fingers instead of a comb or brush. Running his fingers through the style will allow him to push the hair in the desired direction while avoiding the completely finished/polished look that a comb or brush might produce.
Did you ever have an “aha” moment regarding men’s cutting?
That moment came when I was learning how to fade. I knew that the lever on the side of my clipper had an open and close position, but once I started using the positions between open and close, fading became much easier!
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