3 Hair Color Case Studies You’ll Want To Bookmark
Hair by LAKMÉ Educator Dani Poletti, @thehairdpo
Follow along as Dani and Amy share their on-trend hair color how-tos.
“When doing jewel tones, the hair doesn’t have to as light as it does for pastels or vivids,” says Dani. “In fact, maintaining some underlying pigment helps achieve a deep richer jewel tone that won’t ‘grab’ bright. That’s why I like clay lighteners to prelighten—they don’t produce as much lift.”
Prelighten/Ombré Balayage: LAKMÉ K.Blonde Bleaching Clay + 30-volume developer in back and 40-volume developer in front.
Base: LAKMÉ Collage Crème Haircolor equal parts 3/22 + 5/22 + 10-volume developer
Formula A/blue-green: LAKMÉ Collage Crème Haircolor 5g 0/70 + 12g 0/31 + 5g 0/00 + 10-volume developer.
Formula B/pink-purple: LAKMÉ Collage Crème Haircolor 4g 0/70 + 15g 0/50 + 10-volume developer.
Formula C/blue: LAKMÉ Collage Crème Haircolor 0/70 + 10-volume developer
Toner: K.Blonde Pearl Toner + 6-volume Long-Lasting Emulsion
--Apply the lightener and process 30 minutes.
--Shampoo with Teknia Ultra Clair Shampoo
--Apply toner, process and remove.
--Apply base formula to all new growth, pulling the color down a bit lower in back.
--Working from the bottom up, alternate base and formulas A, B and C in 1-inch to 1 ½-inch panels.
--Process 30 minutes and remove.
Why LAKMÉ? “The tones are true pure tones that do exactly what they say they are going to do,” says Dani. “The colors are so concentrated, which makes them customizable and easy to get exactly what you want. If you look at our red and copper swatches, for example, they are bright and rich! They come out exactly like the swatch, but if you wanted to make a more natural red, you could add a rich brown—I love /60. You’d get the vibrance and richness from the red with a more natural appearance.”
It’s also a plus that LAKMÉ is a sustainable company. Recycling water saves 50,000 gallons annually. The use of solar panels reduces energy more than 12.000kWh annually. Each year they recycle more than 25 metric tons of cardboard. And the argan oil in many of their products is sourced with the help of an organization called Olvea, a Moroccan organization that supports the emancipation of women and the education of children in rural areas.
“My client wanted to go darker, blend her grey, but maintain enough blonde to stay in her comfort zone,” says Amy. “I used LAKMÉ Gloss Demi Permanent to keep the color low-maintenance because it fades evenly and leaves no line of demarcation. This will make a transition back to blonde easier in the future!”
Formula A/gloss, roots and dark pull-through: LAKMÉ Gloss Demi Permanent 10g 5/60 + 25g 4/00 + 5g 6/17 + 40g 9-volume Developing Emulsion. Mix a second bowl using 6-volume Developing Emulsion Long Lasting.
Formula B/gloss and blonde ends: LAKMÉ Gloss Demi Permanent 20g 9/60 + 5g 8/17 + 5g 0/00 + 60g Developing Emulsion Long-Lasting
--Apply formula A to roots covering gray regrowth and blend downward slightly.
--Alternate panels of formula A and B in a bricklay pattern, saturating midstrands and ends and using a twist technique to keep colors separate.
--Process roots for 20 minutes, ends for 40 minutes.
--Shampoo with Teknia Colorstay Sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner.
--Style with K.Style Top Ten for heat protection, Bio Argan Oil for moisture and curl separation and Pliable hairspray.
WHY LAKMÉ: “The company’s primary focus is on the integrity of the hair,” says Amy. “So I know I’ll get gorgeous, predictable results every time. And from the moment I started using the products, I was supported by awesome education. Now as a LAKMÉ educator for the past four years, I get the pleasure of continuing that legacy and providing stylists with the support they need to love the product as much as I do.”
“A new client came in wanting gray/silver highlights,” Amy reveals. “She had about six inches of virgin regrowth and previously balayaged ends. After a VERY thorough consultation it became clear that what she really wanted was blonde without the brass. Due to her previous experience, she thought if she asked for silver, she might actually leave with the cool blonde hair color she wanted!
Formula A: 40g LAKMÉ K.Blonde Bleaching Powder + 80g 20-volume Collage Crème developer + 10ml I Plex step 1 Premium Bond Protector
Formula B: LAKMÉ Toner-Gloss Demi Permanent 30g 10/20 + 10g K.Blonde Silver Toner + 10g 0/00 + 100g 6-volume Developing Emulsion Long-Lasting
--Create a center part, dividing the head in half.
--Working in small diagonal back subsections, create a base tease and apply lightener from midstrand to ends. Use a paddle, saturate the hair thoroughly and be sure to blur the lightener into the tease seamlessly.
--Lay sections on foil and work up the head until both sides are complete. Process 35 minutes, rinsing the sides in order of application.
--Remove the foils, work Teknia Color Stay Conditioner into the teased roots and massage gently to release the backcombing.
--Shampoo and condition with Teknia Extreme Cleanse Shampoo and Teknia Deep Care Conditioner.
--Apply formula B roots to ends, comb through and process 10 minutes.
--Shampoo with Teknia Color Stay Shampoo, rinse and towel dry the hair.
--Apply I Plex Step 2 and process for 10 minutes.
--Rinse with cool water.
--Style with K.Style Top Ten and K.Therapy Bio Argan Oil.
WHY LAKMÉ: LAKMÉ is a family business with a long history in the world of hairdressing. The company was born from experience, passion and knowledge in the field of cosmetic research. All LAKMÉ colors are PPD-free, sulfate-free, paraben-free, gluten-free, and vegan. “As an educator,” says Amy, “I am a member of a small but mighty, extremely talented team that supports and cheers for one another. It’s truly a family.”
Learn more at www.lakmeusa.com.