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Hair Color Trends

How-To: Magical Melt

Maggie Mulhern | March 15, 2019 | 9:06 AM
Hair color makeover by Nicole Graftner (@hairbynicoleg)

Nicole Graftner (@hairbynicoleg), a freelance artist based at 6 Chester Avenue. Bogo Beauty Toronto, Ontario Canada , wowed us with this makeover. We had to know more and Graftner shares the details:

BACKSTORY

Emily, my guest came in for her complimentary consult (which I insist on for all new clients ) at the end of October 2018 . 

We discussed her hair history and series of previous balayage sessions which unfortunately left her hair color not where she wanted it. 

DETAILS

Natural level 3, 7-8 “ regrowth, mids at a level 6 orange/red. Ends - some  areas had been left compromised due to previous lightening to a level 9, some were her natural level 3, the majority was a level 7 

CHALLENGE

To lift everything evenly for an even canvas by navigating through all the different levels of natural and artificial color to lift everything evenly to the same level at the ends/mids.  Emily wanted a Balayage ombré effect. My goal was to get her mids to a 7/8 and ends to a 8/9.

She was totally understanding  and knew I couldn’t be too aggressive during the lightening process so this session was more about creating an even, blended look while maintaining the integrity of the hair. 

PROCESS

Prepare 2 separate bowls of Schwarzkopf Blondme lightener 

1 bowl with 30 volume - for zone 1/2 as well as the natural level 3 in between in zone 3

1 bowl with 15 volume - for the majority of her level 7 in zone 3

Begin at the nape in a bricklay pattern – combine diagonal  and horizontal 1/4” wide sections in a chunky weave. Backcomb then isolate in foils. 

The pieces that were already at a level 9 and compromised were left out but mids balayaged to blend. Work up to the crown in this manner.

Sides -

Diagonal back 1/4” sections beginning at the ear/ hairline. Once again navigating through the level 7, level 3 and random level 9 pieces. 

Each section was woven, backcombed and painted alternating with the 2 separate bleach mixtures. Last 3 sections on either side of her natural part at the top of the head were a very fine backcombed and painted weave. 

Babylight the faceframe.

Return to the nape. Work up the head. All foils are re-opened and checked. In some cases bleach and 20 volume was re-applied.

Process for 1 hour. 

Lift ends to a level 9 , zone 1/2 to a level 7/8

Shampoo and apply a cocktail of conditioner and Joico porosity equalizer.  Rinse and towel dry.

Pre-tone with Guy Tang MyDentity Rapid Toner,  Pearl and 6 volume. Process for 5 minutes. 

Shampoo, condition, towel dry. 

Tone:

Zone 1 to 2 dragging down 1” in front to 6” inches in back in a teardrop shape using

Schwarzkopf Igora and 7 volume - 6-12, 10g  8-11 10g , 6-1  7g , 0-22 2g  

Zone 2 to 3  Vibrance and 6 volume, 8-11 15g , clear 5g , 3g 8-19, 5g 9.5-1 

Process for 15 minutes.

Apply Olaplex step 2 for 10 minutes under the dryer. Wash and style.  

Total time 7 hours 

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