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When an Extensions Consultation Turns into a Color Correction

Mary Kaleta | April 4, 2019 | 9:57 AM

It happens all the time; a client books an appointment for one thing, but when they sit down in your chair, you realize more work is to be done. That's why consultations are extremely important.

Chicago hairstylist Bianca Salazar @biancahdrs has been in the industry for 10 years and specializes in balayage, color corrections and extensions. Recently, a client came to Salazar for an extensions consultation.

After attempting to color match her client, Salazar realized that a gentle color correction was needed to prep her hair for an extensions install. There were many spots and lines of demarcation that needed to be blended.

"I knew I had my work cut out for me because her ends were also compromised," Salazar says. "She is getting married this summer, and I wanted her to have soft, dimensional balayage with fullness and length."

Here's how Salazar crafted the correction.

Step 1: The client was a natural level 3 with highlights that were levels 7 and 8. Salazar sectioned her client's hair into five sections: Two zigzag side panels going from the back of the ear forward; One back panel going from the back of the ear across the occipital bone to the other ear; One panel from the occipital to the crown, which left out one small diamond section at the crown for a halo affect.

Step 2: She mixed Wella Blondor with 25vol ( 1:2 ) with Brazilian Bond Builder.

Step 3: She started at the first two front sections by going in small diagonal back partings and adding babylights to touch up the new growth, then weaving out any previously lightened spots that could not be lightened again and saturating them with B3 Semi Permanent Conditioning Treatment. She placed a foil over that, which then left the dark spots that needed to be lightened exposed. She added lightener to those ends and placed a foil over that.

Step 4: Salazar continued step 3 on sections 3 & 4 with 30 vol and Brazilian Bond Builder.

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Step 5: She added low lights in between every third foil in the front and every other foil in the back.
Formula: Wella Color Touch 6/71 and 6/73 (1:1) with 6vol.
Application time: 1.5 hours
Processing time: 20 min

Step 6: She shampooed with neutralizing shampoo and blow-dried to 80%.

Step 7: Root smudge and tone.
Formula for Zone 1: Wella Color Touch 5/1 , 6 vol
Formula for Zone 2: Wella Color Touch 7/1, 6vol
Formula for Zone 3: Wella Color Touch 9/16 & 10/01 (1:1) ,6 vol
Processing time: 25 min

Step 8: Rinse, condition, blow dry and style. Prebook for toner in 4-6 weeks

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