The 2014 pixie was all the rage and suited so many women. But what do you do with that client who has decided to grow out her short hair, but still wants something fashionable? Sam Villa has the answer.

As anyone who has worked with him knows, educator Sam Villa is a brilliant stylist. For this MODERN feature, Villa was eager to demonstrate how to work with the client who is growing out her 2014 pixie but still wants something modern.

“Clients loved the layers in the pixie,” Villa says. “But now they’ve decided it’s time to play with some length. To keep these looks fresh, turn your undercuts and underlayers upside down. Now the degree of shortness is in the crown or top layer.”

The pre-sectioning for this look is key. Villa spends almost as much time sectioning as he does cutting.

While creating a modern cut, Villa also uses modern terminology. “It’s time we change the way we speak,” he says. “We have to think, say and do differently. The goal is to keep clients in the salon and acknowledge you as being ahead of the game. Lose the word asymmetrical. Instead use ‘tilt.’ For texturize, use ‘vandalize’; for versatile, use ‘double identity’ and for volume, use ‘frothy.’ It keeps the conversation going and points to you as the one who is on top of the professional world.”

“It’s important to understand, when detaching haircuts, pre-sectioning is critical to organize your detached areas,” Villa says. “Sectioning is important for control especially when you are detaching a haircut. It gives you an opportunity to create consistent balance throughout the cut.”

Think of sectioning like cut and paste when working on your computer. Sectioning can adjust based on the end result. For example, for fine hair make your diamond section smaller to maintain more weight at the perimeter. When hair is thick make your diamond section larger to remove more hair from underneath.

“Remember cutting by feel requires more time and in today’s world clients want in and out,” he says.

Hair: Sam Villa, assisted by Kristina Maccaro
Haircolor: Dhaniel Doud
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Makeup: David Maderich for Face Atelier
Fashion styling: Rod Novoa

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