How-To: Sam Villa's Dual Identity Grown-Out Pixie Cut

by Elizabeth Jakaitis | January 29, 2015

The 2014 pixie was all the rage and suited so many women. But what do you do with that client who has decided to grow out her short hair, but still wants something fashionable? Sam Villa has the answer.

As anyone who has worked with him knows, educator Sam Villa is a brilliant stylist. For this MODERN feature, Villa was eager to demonstrate how to work with the client who is growing out her 2014 pixie but still wants something modern.

“Clients loved the layers in the pixie,” Villa says. “But now they’ve decided it’s time to play with some length. To keep these looks fresh, turn your undercuts and underlayers upside down. Now the degree of shortness is in the crown or top layer.”

The pre-sectioning for this look is key. Villa spends almost as much time sectioning as he does cutting.

While creating a modern cut, Villa also uses modern terminology. “It’s time we change the way we speak,” he says. “We have to think, say and do differently. The goal is to keep clients in the salon and acknowledge you as being ahead of the game. Lose the word asymmetrical. Instead use ‘tilt.’ For texturize, use ‘vandalize’; for versatile, use ‘double identity’ and for volume, use ‘frothy.’ It keeps the conversation going and points to you as the one who is on top of the professional world.”

“It’s important to understand, when detaching haircuts, pre-sectioning is critical to organize your detached areas,” Villa says. “Sectioning is important for control especially when you are detaching a haircut. It gives you an opportunity to create consistent balance throughout the cut.”

Think of sectioning like cut and paste when working on your computer. Sectioning can adjust based on the end result. For example, for fine hair make your diamond section smaller to maintain more weight at the perimeter. When hair is thick make your diamond section larger to remove more hair from underneath.

“Remember cutting by feel requires more time and in today’s world clients want in and out,” he says.

Hair: Sam Villa, assisted by Kristina Maccaro
Haircolor: Dhaniel Doud
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Makeup: David Maderich for Face Atelier
Fashion styling: Rod Novoa

Xavier at work, surrounded by chaos, at Salon Xavier, Sag Harbor, NY


Best Kids Cut Ever!

by Maggie Mulhern

Xavier Merat, owner of Salon Xavier, Sag Harbor, NY, shows how he can execute the perfect kids cut on a ten year old boy while surrounded by his younger brother, a microphone and a recording device. He's a PRO!

Mastering the bob


Five Tips To Mastering The Bob

by Maggie Mulhern

It is a classic and a silhouette that every hairdresser should know how to perfect. But creating a bob is really more detailed than you think. Get a breakdown of the cut and learn the five MUSTS to mastering the shape.

TRENDING: The French Bob


TRENDING: The French Bob

by Anne Moratto

Leave it to the French to inspire a haircut so chic, it’s truly timeless. It’s a look that never goes away and when you see it, you know it. And lately, we’ve been seeing it everywhere.

Why it Makes Sense to be a Curl Expert


Why it Makes Sense to be a Curl Expert

by Michelle Breyer

Although more than 60 percent of the population has curly, coily or wavy hair, only a fraction of stylists are trained to work with texture. There is only one curl-trainedstylist for every 32,000 curly people, according to DevaCurl, which has trained thousands of stylists at its Academy.


In our video section, watch salon professionals in action, listen to the advice of salon business experts, and tour inside the world’s top salons.

Load More