The challenge? How to keep bobs, lobs and long layered haircuts—cuts that make our clients so happy—looking modern and interesting. Find out how cutting and styling experts are keeping things fresh this season.
April 9, 2019
A little more layering, a little more volume. The latest lobs are giving off a shag vibe. Another quick update? Add a fringe! Hair by Whitney Bass, @w.basshair
Bobs, lobs and long layered haircuts. Together, they represent close to 99.9 percent of the haircuts you do every day. The challenge? How to keep these faithful friends—cuts that make our clients so happy—looking modern and interesting. It’s all in the details, say Sexy Hair Sr. Education Artistic Training Manager Missy Croquart, @authenticladyboss and Sexy Hair International Master Artist Dawn Atkinson, @hairartistrybydawn. Find out how these cutting and styling experts are keeping things fresh this season.
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UNDERCUT BOBS AND LOBS
One of the biggest downsides of a cute bob or lob is they tend to get bulky as they grow out. Especially if the natural texture of the hair is thick or curly. “That’s why undercuts are more relevant than ever,” says Dawn. “Keeping the hair underneath lean below the parietal will prevent bulk and maintain the texture and movement that’s so important in a modern-looking lob.” Customize your undercutting for the client’s texture. Place the undercutting from the occipital down if the hair is finer; move up to the parietal if it’s thick. “The density of the hair,” says Dawn, “determines how high your undercut will go.”
SEAMLESS LAYERS
“So many people just pick up the hair and cut layers,” observes Dawn. “A better way to do it is to wrap the hair in over-direction when layering so it lays against the head. This technique will produce layers that mimic the client’s head shape, so when they grow out, they do so softly and seamlessly.”
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SHAG-LEANING LOBS
The word “shag” strikes terror in some—they see those awkward, disconnected, late ‘70s shapes that border mullet territory. But hear us out. “Lobs are evolving into subtle shag shapes,” says Missy. “It’s a way to maintain the length people want while updating their lobs.” Modern shags are long and lean, so Dawn cuts in long, lean sections at very low elevations. “You can just cut the mids and ends if you want a softer feel, or break up the sections higher on the head,” she says. “Just keep the elevation low to avoid that bubble effect at the crown.” Amp up the effortless vibe by using a curling wand or flat iron to add beachy waves.
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CUT A FRINGE
As lobs move into shag territory, consider offering clients shag-a-licious lobs with a fringe. “Fringes are back,” say Missy and Dawn. Cutting a fringe is a great way to update a layered lob or a classic bob. Even curly clients are loving shag shapes and bangs. “There will always be that client who wants a strong or bold fringe,” Dawn observes. “But textured, soft, airy fringes are a great choice with lobs or shags.”
3 DAYS, 3 STYLES
“We’re seeing loads of two- and three-day hair,” says Missy. “So why not show your lob and long layered clients ways to get three looks out of all three days? For example, on day one, start with a smooth look. You’ll still want plenty of body, so use a root booster like Big Sexy Hair Root Pump Volumizing Spray Mousse at the roots and Blow Dry Bodifying Lotion on the mids and ends. Wrap dry with a round brush, then apply Crème to Powder Play for hold and separation. On the second day, use a curling wand or flat iron to create beach waves. Work Crème to Powder Play into the roots and work it through to break up the curls and add volume.” Finally, on the third day, it’s time for a dressed-up ponytail. “Ponytails are no longer lazy day styles,” says Dawn. “You can create smooth or voluminous ponies with lots of polish and shine. These are special ponytails.”
A DRY STYLER
Regardless of the length, texture is everything right now, and the newest way to achieve texture is with a dry styler. One of the newest is Sexy Hair Crème to Powder Play. “Apply it to dry hair,” explains Missy. “It starts as a crème and when it dries, it gives you grip without grit. It amplifies the root and gives you control. The trick to using it is to emulsify it in your fingers and really work it into the roots. Then run it through to the ends for that modern, tousled, controlled movement, volume and texture.” Perfect for any length and for men and women, Missy suggests starting small, with a nickel-sized amount. “On short hair, this will extend roots to ends. On longer hair it will cover the roots and you can apply more as needed.”
Try the new Crème to Powder Play All Over Volumizer and Texturizer with your lobs, bobs and long layers. Enter to win a free sample.
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