More than ever, hair extensions are being used to go beyond adding length and volume. Stylists are softening hard lines or defining shapes using bonded, clip-in or tape-in extensions. Most interestingly and depending on the occasion, these methods are now being combined for ease and speed to create fresh looks.

MODERN invited Great Lengths USA Executive Director Danielle Keasling and Great Lengths USA Senior Design Team Director Nanci Lee to the Water Street Studios in NYC to show how they use extensions to define or almost confuse identities—making sharp finishes subtle and softer edges strong.

Brunette model, Bruna, has big bouncy curls, but both Keasling and Lee wanted to enhance her powerful look. Once the hair was blown out almost straight, extensions were added to give Bruna more style options including a long, full and shiny ponytail, accented with a line of sparkle along the part. For model Snow, extensions were used in a more traditional way—to add length, density and enhance her soft and sexy style.

Keasling and Lee are no strangers to “playing” with extensions and maximizing any photoshoot opportunity. Knowing they wanted to get multiple looks on their models, the artists prepared the extensions beforehand, applying tape-ins to clip-ins. “Clips-ins are fast, but sometimes they are not long enough,” Lee says. By placing tape-ins just below the weft of clip-ins, hairdressers can control that length, and also speed up the application process.

“Adding tape-ins to clip-ins is a great way to add highlights and to extend the life of used extensions,” Lee adds. “This technique works especially well for bridal looks and other special events.”

When it comes to blending, Keasling acknowledges that cutting extensions properly can be the difference between a good and bad result. “The key is to match the client’s natural texture and layering,” she says. “I do things a little backwards by cutting the perimeter at the very end. I begin with interior cutting, blending as I go. Once I’m comfortable with the interior, I point cut the ends to determine the length.”

Keasling adds that the best finishes have an undefined perimeter. “To soften, I cut from the natural fall. Women want to wear extensions, but don’t want it to look like they are wearing extensions. The natural progression of application and cutting is going to give you the most natural look.”

Step 1: For classic tape-in application, measure the width to determine how many tapes are needed. Make sure to keep at least a 1-inch perimeter from the hairline. If tapes are needed above the parietal ridge, they must be carefully placed so they don’t show through the natural hair. 

Step 2: When doing a single tape application, place extension at least 1/4-inch from the scalp. Press once with the attachment tool. 

Step 3: Lift extension and place the safety band on the underside of the attached tape-in.

Step 4: Press and secure with the attachment tool.

Step 5: Slide cut to blend internally.

Step 6: Now define the perimeter. Slide cut along the ends or point cut deeply to create the desired length. 

Step 7: Blend the natural hair and the extensions by curling together with a 1 1/4-inch iron. 

Hair: Great Lengths USA artists Danielle Keasling and Nanci Lee
Photographer: Roberto Ligresti
Makeup: David Maderich for MAC
Fashion styling: Rod Novoa
Nail artist: Armani Je’ton

PRODUCTS & TOOLS
Hair extensions: Great Lengths USA; HairUWear Pro clip ins
Tools: Dyson hair dryer, Mint curling iron; T3 flat iron; ghd curling irons, Hot Tools iron; BabylissPRO flat iron; Sam Villa crimping iron
Shears: Hikari
Combs/brushes: YS Park combs, Great Lengths brushes
Stylers: Biolage Styling Spray, Matrix Volume Builder Mousse, Redken 23 spray, Olaplex #7 Bonding Oil
Eyelashes: House of Lashes
Makeup: Becca Ultimate Coverage Longwear Concealer; GrandeLips Lip Plumper