When a client wants to go lighter, but her hair’s integrity isn’t up for the challenge, you don’t always need to send her out the door. Hair extensions can make for an alternative service that leaves her with fresh color, long lengths and volume, without ever pulling out a foil or color bowl.

MODERN’s Editor in Chief Alison Alhamed recently cut off quite a bit of length from her over-processed ends, which took her long lengths up to a just-past-the-shoulder lob. Although her number-one goal was a return to healthier hair, the change left her feeling a little uneasy. So she called upon Hairtalk Master Educator Alicia Iannone to transform her balayaged lob with face-framing money pieces into a healthy, bright beige-y blonde that is completely seamless.

“Some stylists who do hair extensions put waves in the hair to make it blend,” says Iannone, who works out of William Robert Salon in Cherry Hill, New Jersey. “But through custom color matching, slide-cutting and texturizing, your client should be able to wear her hair straight or curly and always have the extensions be completely seamless.”

Working in 4cm-width sections, Iannone says it’s important to always match the density of the client’s hair to the density of the band. For this look, she used Hairtalk Original and Original Plus tape-in Remy extensions, and worked in two different lengths—14-16 inch and 18-20 inch. Hairtalk also offers Petites and Minis—the same as Originals but with a smaller width for finer-haired clients or those looking to add zonal volume.

To begin, Iannone analyzed the hair and created her placement plan. Working in three zones (nape, mid section, top of head), she visualized the rows in her head and sketched out an application plan. Each section of hair has a top piece and a bottom piece, sandwiched around Alhamed’s natural hair. Iannone placed bright blonde pieces on the bottom with a colormelted piece on top to create a balayaged effect without bleach.

Zone 1: nape
Zone 2: mid section
Zone 3: top and sides

Zone 1:
Through the nape, up to Zone 2, apply 18-20 inch strands of:
Bottom band: 23
Top band: 5/23 colormelt

Zone 2:
For the first row, repeat Zone 1 shades. For the next rows, switch to 18-20 inch strands of:
Bottom band: 23
Top band: 6/24 colormelt

Zone 3:
For the first row, repeat Zone 2 shades and lengths. For the remaining rows, switch to 14-16 inch strands in the same color combo
Bottom band: 23
Top band: 6/24

Accent pieces:
To match the “money pieces” in the front, Iannone used:
Bottom band: 25
Top band: 6/24

Once she was finished applying the extensions to the whole head, Iannone then used her shears to slide cut out some weight and help blend the natural hair with the extensions—never cutting into the natural hair. 

“The average client needs between two and three packs of hair, depending on the overall color effect,” Iannone says. Hairtalk Originals are available in 12-piece packs and 20-piece packs. “Sometimes I use a fourth pack if the client needs a fourth color.”

Pricing for this service depends on the location and the salon, but Iannone generally charges within the $500 range for installation of the extensions, plus the cost of the hair.

“It’s important to remember your client isn’t paying for the product, she’s paying for the extensions service,” she says. “Just like when you don’t use a whole tube of hair color, you don’t send home the client with the unused extensions.”

Hairtalk extensions can be worn for about eight-ten weeks following the initial service, and can be retaped up to two more times. At home maintenance includes Hairtalk shampoo and conditioner, or any non-heavy conditioner at the scalp. Clients need to remember to rinse longer than usual to ensure there isn’t product left in the hair or near the adhesive bands.

To see more makeovers by Iannone, check out her Instagram page, and to learn more about Hairtalk extensions, visit http://hairtalkusa.com/.