Choose Beauty: Angus Mitchell
It’s no surprise Angus Mitchell says hairdressing chose him. What is surprising: He didn’t take the easy route.
Victoria Wurdinger
Contributor
A former cosmetology textbook editor, Victoria Wurdinger has visited salons from Moscow to Miami. She was the first beauty journalist to win an international award for her coverage of the British Hair Fashion industry, the first to visit salons in the former East Germany one month after the fall of the Berlin Wall, and the first to conduct a photoshoot in Moscow’s Red Square for a beauty magazine after the break-up of the U.S.S.R. As a freelancer, Victoria has written for dozens of publications, including Modern Salon, Hairdressers Journal (UK), Top Hair (Germany), Color & Style, Celebrity Hairstyles, Longevity and Drug Store News, as well as several websites. Additionally, she has developed educational programs and DVD scripts for dozens of publishers and marketers. The winner of several American Society of Business Press Editors awards, Victoria is the author of numerous books, including Competition Hairdesign, The Photo Session Handbook, 101 Quick Fixes for Bad Hair Day and Multicultural Markets. For the latter, she conducted extensive historical research, sometimes working with Spanish translators to explore early methods of hair styling in the Latino community. Multicultural Markets contains the never-before-published history of ethnic beauty culture in the United States.
Beat Out Box Color
About 62 million American women are home hair-color users, 25 million are dual salon/home users and, according to Mintel market research, last year, of 1,000 women surveyed who got salon color, 15 percent shifted to doing it themselves. To address the elephant in the room, Lauren Gartland, founder of Inspiring Champions, a beauty industry business training company, suggests using creative, targeted promotions.
Masking Orange: What Would You Do?
Prior to her look in this photo, this natural Level-5 client was an all over Level-8 with highlights. “My hair lifted well, but my ends are a little brassy. I would like to get rid of the brassy color without having to put bleach on it again,” she said. MODERN asked its Facebook Friends: “How can this client mask the orange without compromising the integrity of her hair?” Almost 100 of you commented on this post—here are a few:
Heartland Blonde
A naturally blonde Minnesota native, Melissa Peterman is a Reba alumnae and, now, the star of Country Music Television’s comedy, Working Class, who plays a single mom looking for a better life in a well-to-do Midwestern suburb. For her upscale new shade of blonde, celebrity hairdresser Jani Kleinbard used IT&LY Hairfashion Colorly 20/20 to get the perfect hue. “Melissa loves her hair like never before,” says Kleinbard.
Beautiful Baliage
At the Sahag Workshop in New York City, color director Doug Macintosh uses baliage to add brightness and dimension to deep shades. He prefers L’Oréal Professionnel’s Platinium with 20-volume developer because “it stays wet like a paste and doesn’t dry out.” His tips for the best baliage:
Spring's Natural Blonde Upgrades
At Boston’s James Joseph Salon, director of education Michelle Lee says spring will bring natural blonde upgrades: shiny shades with punched-up tonality that come from playing in different levels.
Choose Beauty: Nathan Rosenkranz
Today, Rosenkranz is the fashion director at the renowned Patrick McIvor Color Studio in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, a winner of the Matrix Mannequin Mania contest, an accomplished platform artist, a frequent backstage talent at NYC’s Fashion Week (Betsey Johnson, Diane Von Furstenberg, Tadashi Shoji) and a respected cutting and styling specialist who frequently shares beauty tips on WFMZ’s Channel 69 News segments. Did we mention he’s still under 40?
Shake Lights
Even when all a client wants is a retouch, add extra dimension. For a fast, subtle solution that works on the darkest of heads, David Stanko, a hair color consultant for Redken 5th Avenue and color director at Angelo David Salon in NYC, devised Shake Lights.
Natasha Bedingfield's '70s Shade
Owner of an eponymous Manhattan salon, Ricardo Rojas, recently colored songstress Natasha Bedingfield. Seeing a ’70s-inspired Blondie shade for her, he transformed her natural Level-10 (she came in with Level-12 highlights and two to three inches of regrowth) with two formulas:
Color Charmer
When Ricardo Rojas colors a client, he naturally takes a personalized color-approach. He currently favors gold blondes, ombre and baliage highlights: “I love a sexy, sun-kissed look.” Shadowing him for a few hours reveals how he focuses on a clear consultation first. As an ambassador for Wella Color Charm, Rojas balances lifestyle and physical characteristics with ample discussion about home care. What else comes to light:
Your Makeovers: Banish Gray
Kathy Partin, owner of Haircolor Experts & More in Troy, Michigan, created Color Concentration, a method of formulating that “concentrates” the color, peroxide and ammonia for each individual. It allows her to banish gray root-to-end without banding, or hot roots, she says. Here’s how it works:
Porosity The Fix
Hair color, double chemical processes and heat styling add up to porosity, which changes color work considerably. Put in the “fix” with Porosity The Fix from White Sands. The relaunched, leave-in treatment claims to act as a concealer, filling in strands’ “blemishes” and balancing out the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. Used during drying, The Fix uses a silicone membrane to lock-in moisture, while providing a “timed” drying process: The ratio of cyclomethicones adjusts for drying time to provide maximum glimmer. What better way to shine up any shade?
One of a Kind Color
Everyone’s talking about customized color, but how do you create it for every client? At Carmen Carmen salons in Charlotte, North Carolina, owner Carmen Cutrona says working with skin tone and lifestyle alone won’t allow self-expression: “Think of how color subtly changes every time you put your hands in the hair or restyle it.” Here’s how his salon created one-of-a-kind color designs for three fabulous makeovers.
Choose Beauty: Nick Arrojo
He has a talent for success in the salon: Nick Arrojo shares the keys to creating a booming business and nurturing a talented staff.
Ted Gibson, The Nice Guy
Star stylist and salon owner Ted Gibson’s mantra is, “Nice guys don’t finish last.” Here, he shares how he proved it to the world.
Texture Trends for Men 2011
Regardless of the age or attitude of the men in your chair, most will want texture for spring, because it’s versatile, and it suits the new, longer lengths. While businessmen will favor refined, old-Hollywood styles—think tapered Mad Men cuts—younger guys will still only pretend not to have Bieber fever by calling their style “Beatlesque.” Urban ethnic guys will grow it a tad beyond skin-fades, while others will continue to give props to the Mohawk, Low Hawk and Faux Hawk.
Choose Beauty: Kelly Cardenas
Kelly Cardenas is a happy, positive guy. A really happy, positive guy. And why not? He has a great family, two namesake salons (Chicago and Las Vegas), an advanced academy and a great career. But don’t think: “big shot.” His mind is on turning his employees into millionaires and creating an incredible client experience.