Do you have the client that asks, "Why doesn't my hair look like her's?"

"The answer is simple but lives within the consultation or guest interview," says Colorist and Educator Eric Charles Mokotoff, Hair Studio Artists." Keeping the consult simple and short will show them your confidence and expertise." MODERN asked Mokotoff to give us his rundown on how to conduct the perfect consultation for any client who sits in your chair.

"My brain is already wired to assess a great deal from the time they walk through the door to my chair. I use a cutting stool as my interview/consult seat, placing me at eye level with them and side by side thus eliminating the behind the chair mirror dialog which is a big no no. I always ask open ended questions, such as what did you have in mind, what do you like or not like about your hair cut and/or color. I listen and watch their body language. How they answer and move speaks volumes. Once I get a fix on what their thoughts and perceptions are I take what they said and create an on the spot spin of what I see based on both their desires/concerns and all the variables.

"I strive to offer ideas, methods, and alternatives they have not heard before. Coming on to my salon we are committed to not repeating the same old stuff every other salon has already done. Ultimately is to gain trust and show your skills, once you prove yourself they will be open to the journey you want to professional take their hair on. We use professional verbiage and dialog to purposely speak differently than the salons around town."

# 1: Here is what to assess:
When it comes to hair there are variables such as hair texture, density and the natural haircolor  you were born with. Add to that the impact on one’s hair due to environment, stress, products, chemicals, haircolor history, blow-drying, flat ironing, genetics and medications. All of these affect the hair in different ways on different people.

And let’s not forget age. Age will change the texture, density, and the color of your hair. A woman’s hair changes several times in her life: Puberty, childbirth, menopause, and any great stress or illness. Now let’s place in skin tone, and eye color to the mix. These too affect the result of your hair and overall image and look.

#2: Here are some tips/facts regarding color:

• Lighter haired people lighten more easily. Their hair simply has less to travel to get that luscious blonde we all see.
• Darker haired people have higher concentrations of red and orange in their hair. This is why they “pull” red tones when coloring or why they seem to brick-wall in what we call “BLORANGE” It is very difficult for a dark haired person to be blonde successfully without causing conditional stress on the hair.
• Finer haired people also lighten faster than coarser haired people.
• Finer haired people with less density will have less volume
• Coarse straight haired people with lots of density will have a harder time holding a curl.

With such a rise in relaxers, straighteners, perms, color, highlights, and keratin treatments we are altering the hairs structure and texture in pursuit of the ultimate looks. The wrong style can add years to your look. All of the above facts need to be second nature in your professional mind.

Fact: Spending more than 15 minutes on a consult will most likely result in an unhappy client or a miscommunication. Your expertise and trust must be gained ASAP. If you can’t come to a mutual vision in 15 minutes either you created doubt for them or they are unable commit.

#3. On many women past 40, long hair that is all one length can drag the face down. Hair thins are we age. Opt for a mid-length bob no longer than the collarbone. Make sure it has some long layers hitting that jawline; give it texture and strong color with some subtle highlights to accent the lines of the cut.

#4. To open up the face and highlight their cheeks bones, opt for a cut that is short in length but with longer top layers that they can tuck behind your ear. This will give a softer look with swing which is key to a more youthful look. Stay away from too short, too cropped; it’ll make them look dated and enhance lines and sagging skin. Produce soft lines not sharped barbered edges. Sweeping color or balayage works great to outline those top layers for haircolor.

#5. Go for bangs, not Botox. Bangs hide finer lines on the forehead and play up your client's eyes and draw attention to their cheeks bones. It gives and old look a new look. Go for the point cut bangs just below the brow to create texture. Avoid heavy straight bangs.

#6. Color Rules: Brunettes should lighten no more than 1 shade. If you’re client is a blonde you should darken 1 shade. Golden highlights bring youthful complexions to your face. Brunettes should be more caramel and blondes look great golden. When it comes to highlighting, less is more. Full head highlighting can make them look older and dramatic colors and contrast will clash with their skin. Despite re-growth gray haired people look better staying darker or going their natural level. IF your client wishes to go lighter consider shadow lights to add dimension. If their color is too dark they will look pale, if it’s too light they will look washed out.