Professional hair color services continue to evolve, shaped by changing client expectations, product innovations, and a desire for customized services. In this MODERN SALON panel, three educators and colorists—Megan Winfield, Adrienne Dara, and Marco Pelusi—discuss some top-line color questions.  From conducting a valuable and instructive consultation to advanced gray coverage and client retention strategies, this Q&A offers up-to-date insights for salon pros from salon pros.

Note: The following is an edited and condensed version of the conversation. For the full conversation, go to this on-demand link and listen at your leisure. 

Q&A: Mastering Hair Color with the Experts

MODERN SALON (MS): Let's start at the beginning of a color appointment. What consultation questions do you ask to ensure you're speaking the same language as your client?

Megan Winfield (MW): I treat the consultation more like a conversation than a formal process. I always ask what they’re loving and not loving about their hair. That second part is key because it shows how we can improve their experience. Open-ended questions help start a more thorough conversation, and spending five extra minutes upfront often leads to a more successful service.

Adrienne Dara (AD): I agree. I want it to feel like a relaxed conversation—not a confrontation. I make direct eye contact and sit beside them instead of standing over them, which can feel intimidating. I use what I call "visual verbiage" to ensure clarity—like asking if they prefer a bold or soft face frame instead of using industry terms like "money piece." Photos are essential too, and I show a variety to identify what tonality the client is drawn to.

Marco Pelusi (MP): My motto: Two ears, one mouth. Listen first. And ask targeted questions like, "What problems did you have with your last color?" That reveals a lot. I also focus on understanding the limitations of the client's hair and managing expectations. I'd rather under-promise and over-deliver than the reverse.

MS:What about customized or upgraded color services? When do you introduce those to the client?

MP: I like to offer a six-month plan based on seasonal shifts and the client's needs. For example, in summer, I might suggest highlights to a brunette client. If they're not ready, I’ll revisit the idea later or pre-book the service.

AD: My approach is very budget-conscious. I help clients plan their year—a full service early in the year, partial in the middle, and face-framing at the end. For gray blending, I might bring them in between full services for a zone 1 root application. It’s about crafting a plan that respects both results and budget.

MW: I always outline costs during the consultation to avoid surprises. I also recommend follow-ups, not as optional, but by offering two date/time choices. That way, I lead the conversation. And I always follow up with new guests within a week—it shows you care and builds loyalty.

MS:What are the most common questions stylists ask you in your education sessions?

AD: Formulation. It's a massive, ongoing learning process. I remind stylists that our canvas is never the same—no one-size-fits-all. Give yourself grace.

MP: Highlighting technique: Should I slice or weave? How thick should it be? My answer: Respect the client’s hair growth patterns and the shape of the head. Also, slices are stronger; weaves are softer.

MW: Toning and formulation questions come up a lot. Many stylists overcomplicate things. I always remind them to go back to basics: porosity, texture, density, and the color wheel. You can’t fix a level 9 problem with a level 10 toner.

MS: And what about client questions?

AD: "How long will my color last?" I ask about their hair care routine, water quality, and how often they wash.

MW: Same—hard water and product use really impact longevity. That question often leads into maintenance scheduling.

MP: Gray coverage is a huge topic. Clients want to know if their gray will be fully covered and how quickly it will return. That leads into discussions about blending vs. full coverage and their maintenance commitment.

MS:Can each of you share a favorite color chemistry tip or technique?

MP: Use foils for scalp-to-end control and precision. Don’t over-squeeze them—that causes bleeding. I also like using different color foils for highlights vs. lowlights.

AD: I use a "movie cast" analogy when formulating with Redken Shades EQ: Brown-to-tan series are the main characters, black-to-gray are the supporting cast, and vivid tones are the extras. The percentage used should reflect those roles.

MW: I teach the acronym FAST: Formulation, Application, Saturation, and Timing. Also: You can’t fix a level 9 mistake with a level 10 Band-Aid. Always tone at the correct level.

MS:Quick myth-busting round—what’s one common misconception you hear?

AD: "Toners make my hair darker." Not true—you just need to lift to the right level first.

MP: "Leaving color on too long makes it too dark." Not always. For permanent color, that’s often a myth. But lightener left on too long is a problem.

MW: "Purple shampoo lightens hair" and "You need heat to process lightener faster" are two big myths I hear. Not true.

MS:Any techniques you think are going out of style?

MW: Super chunky highlights. Some love them, but I prefer a lived-in look.

MP: Highlights taken too close to the scalp, unless it’s on certain blondes.

AD: Bold, isolated money pieces. Clients want more diffused, natural brightness now.

MS: Let’s wrap with gray coverage. Tips?

MP: One of the top questions I get is: “I have this client with gray hair—how do I approach it?” First, determine your starting point. Take the time to assess the percentage of gray—if the first thing you see at the regrowth is white, they’re likely over 50% gray. If you mostly see their natural color, they’re under 50%. Use this estimate to guide formulation. A good rule of thumb: match the percentage of gray with the same percentage of natural tone in the formula. For resistant gray, I’ve found success leaving color on longer than the standard processing time. With some lines, a little added heat (always following manufacturer guidance) can help open the cuticle before fully processing the color.

AD: That gray percentage analysis is so important—it becomes your “legend” for navigating formulation. I always clarify with clients whether they want to blend or cover their gray, and then I show them what that grow-out will look like. A client might say they want full coverage, but they’re not prepared for the maintenance it requires. For clients who want both coverage and dimension, I evaluate whether the color line is a gel, cream, or liquid, and whether it allows simultaneous gray coverage and highlights. But I never approach it with a “how fast can I do this?” mindset. Instead, I ask: What is the best plan for this client’s canvas?

MW: I love that, and I’d add that gray percentage isn’t consistent across the head. A client might be 100% gray at the hairline but only 25% in the crown. That requires multiple formulas. Our calibrated N series at Kenra makes formulation easier, but I always check if the hair is resistant. In that case, pre-softening or pigment loading—using distilled water, never tap—is key. Follow your manufacturer’s directions. Also, don’t overlook the power of a good consultation. And when transitioning clients to embrace their gray, we need to offer grace and a realistic, service-based plan.

AD: Absolutely. If you master gray coverage, you’ll retain clients long-term. Most of my every-3-weeks clients are gray coverage regulars.

MP: And they’re the most loyal. They’re the bread and butter of many salons.

MW: Totally. And as more clients want to embrace their gray, we need to help them do it gradually and beautifully—not with a harsh line, but with a strategic blend.

Thanks to our friends at SalonCentric for their support in bringing you this conversation.