Sweet Treat
Skyla Kuykendall creates lived-in color with Paul Mitchell lightener and the Demi.
Keeping It Cool: Controlling Warmth With Balayage
There are many ways to control warmth, but hair color expert Eva Scrivo uses balayage to "keep it cool". Here she shares details.
September 6, 2017
2 min to read
"Controlling warmth to keep the hair from going brassy has always been a highlighting challenge," says Eva Scrivo, a balayage and color correction expert. "Due to the basic laws of color theory, you are always fighting brassiness when removing the hair's natural pigment."
Scrivo has mastered the art over the course of two decades and now teaches this art to colorists from around the world at her NYC Balayage Academy. "Controlling brass is especially difficult with brunettes. When lightening the hair from brunette to blond, orange or yellow remains as the bi-product which you cannot rely on toners or glosses to remove.”
MODERN asked Scrivo for her top 3 tips to controlling warmth. Here she shares:
1. Texture matters. The consistency of your bleach has a lot to do with the result. Formulate on the thicker side so bleach does not slide off the hair.
2. Feather the root area. You should be using less product there, even when doing a re-touch.
3. Avoid heat. Scrivo says that colorists will often blast the hair with heat, fearing that it will not lighten enough on its own. “This is a true ‘DON’T’,” says Scrivo. "Adding heat is actually counter-intuitive to the art of balayage, as I explain in detail during my classes. When balayage orignated in Paris, heat was not applied."
At her Academy, Scrivo teaches classic balayage techniques, as well as application and processing methods, focusing on how to bring out the shape and dimension of a haircut with color while choosing the correct tone for a client's complexion. The next class, titled "Balayage Brun," coming up on September 18th, is all about the intricacies of balayaging brunettes, as well as traditional blondes. Details here: http://evascrivo.com/academy/
Subscribe to Our Newsletter
More Color
Dimension, Then Gloss
Grethe Helen Sagmoen combines highlights, lowlights, and ArganID™ Glossing with Moroccanoil.
Obsession Blonde
Mike Sharkey maps out a teasylight placement with Satin Hair Color SilverLift.
Foxy Locks
Brooke Alexis pairs an Aquarely formula with targeted color placement and blonde accents.
The Seamless Blend
Shonda Sharee shares her approach to coordinating color on natural hair and extensions.
Melt Into Dimension
Stevie Meech combines lowlights, a root melt, and an all-over toner using Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA VIBRANCE.
3 Permanent Color Transitions that Rival the Fall Leaves
John Paul Mitchell Systems The Color ZERO offers effective permanent color without any of the harshness and with all of the protection. See how these artists used the line to achieve stunning, fall-inspired results.
Sponsored by John Paul Mitchell Systems
Satin Hair Color Launches Satin Sessions, Connecting Color Inspiration with Salon Technique
Satin Hair Color’s new education series debuts Expression Brunette and Obsession Blonde, with step-by-step techniques and formulas from colorist Mike Sharkey.
by Anne Moratto
From Gray Coverage to Gray Blending: Satin Hair Color on the Trend of Going Gray
Gray blending offers the best of both worlds for those stuck between wanting to lean into their grays and wanting to run from them. Satin Hair Color, known for its expertly formulated professional color, is here to provide tips and tricks for achieving the perfect gray-blending technique for your clients.
by Staff
Color Analysis: A Personalized Approach to Designing Hair Color
Using Color Analysis, a system formalized in the 1980s, these stylists create something optimized to bring out the best in their clients, while also helping them stand out with this specialty.
by Anne Moratto
10 Hair Color Challenges Every Stylist Faces and How Experts Solve Them
From tackling stubborn grays and unwanted warmth to achieving the perfect blonde, Moroccanoil Professional artists share their advice and color solutions.
Sponsored by Moroccanoil
Color Without Compromise: Blondes Shine with Goldwell LightDimensions SilkLift Strong and Colorance
Are your blondes feeling blah? Give ’em a lift with LightDimensions SilkLift Strong
Sponsored by Goldwell
ColorFest 2026: The Hair Color Formulas and Creative Techniques Everyone Will Be Talking About
Trending, fool-proof, and fantastic formulas.
4 Express Salon Add-On Services That Boost Revenue and Keep Clients Coming Back
Schwarzkopf Professional Ambassadors Carly Zanoni and Brendnetta Ashley share the express color and treatment services helping stylists deliver great results in under 30 minutes while creating new opportunities for client retention and revenue growth.
by Anne Moratto
PRAVANA Expands HydraGloss Line with Two Red-Violet Shades Inspired by the “Cherry Cola” Trend
As rich red-violet tones continue trending, the brand introduces two new demi shades designed for depth, shine, and dimensional color.
by Staff
Something Special: Amelia Fugitt's Stunning Transformations
In an industry with so many options and opportunities, we asked artists what made them niche down and select a specialty. Amelia Fugitt (@ameliahairmakeup) says choosing to focus on transformations has transformed her career.
The Rise of “Naturals”: How Foundational Shades Are Driving Salon Growth
From gray blending to glossing services, stylists are redefining low-maintenance hair color and building more consistent, profitable salon business.
by Anne Moratto