Let’s face it: cutting men’s hair isn’t always as easy at it looks. It takes time, practice and continuing education to become comfortable in the art of men’s grooming. Master Barber Greg Zorian, founder of the Gregory’s Barbershops in upstate New York, is a third generation barber—and is an expert in the fi eld of men’s grooming. First Chair asked Zorian, who developed the Masters of Barbering online educational program, his advice for beauty grads to become successful men’s groomers.

“You Play Like You Practice” This is a direct quote from my high school football coach and it is so true. Practice is everything. The best at anything in life are the best because they are never satisfi ed and continue to practice. Make sure to get extra repetitions on hair cuts or services you are the most uncomfortable doing when you are in school. If you are out of school, offer free services when you are not on the book or on the clock. Once you get these services down in practice you will be able to duplicate them on a paying client.

Don’t Cut Hair by Numbers When giving a clipper cut, it is much more professional to refer to the different attachments by measurement than by number. For example: Explaining the hair cut as a three-fi nger high ½” taper sounds more professional than, “you get a number 3 clipper cut.” When a client is not educated and asks for a “number 3” cut, it does not tell you how high he wants the taper or if he likes skin showing or complete scalp coverage. Additionally, attachments do not have a universal numbering system. A number 1 attachment may be the longest for one brand and the shortest for another. There are also attachments that just have the measurement listed on them without a number.

Scissor-over-Comb: Scissor-over-comb is the secret weapon in men’s hair cutting—it is the oldest and best technique. There was a time when the electric clipper did not exist and all cutting was done with different-sized combs, scissors and straight razors. Clients associate a higher level of skill with this technique, instead of just putting an attachment on a clipper and running a number 3 up the sides. This is a great way to show your clients you have a superior skill level and take a lot of pride in your hair cuts.

If You Don’t Make a Weight Line You Won’t Have to Blend it Out: This has to be the most debated topic in men’s hair cutting. When cutting any type of faded or graduated cut it is much easier to blend from longer to shorter. By cutting the hair in this manner you will never leave a weight line or hard line of demarcation that is very diffi cult and time consuming to blend out. Begin on the top and work down from the longest to shortest lengths. This works with a clipper and attachments or different-length combs with the scissor/clipper-over-comb cutting technique. Your effi ciency and quality of cuts will increase tremendously when cutting in this manner.

It is Only a Cowlick if Cut Too Short An entire book could be written on the different types of cowlicks and how to deal with them. The most important thing to remember is it is only a cowlick if it is cut too short. This may sound over simplifi ed but if you don’t cut the hair too short in the crown or the pivot area the hair will not stick up. Take the extra time combing or brushing through the hair before you begin cutting to get a feel for the natural fall of the hair. This will determine how short you can cut the hair on the top section and how high the hair can be tapered on the sides and in the back.

Dress for Success This applies to students as well as industry professionals. Your image is everything. We are in a grooming business—clients come to you for your services because they want to look and feel better. The more put together and professional you look the more confi dence the client will have in you. Your hair should be done every day for school or work as well as your make-up—before you get there. Your clothes should be ironed and always professional. Fellow students, co-workers, teachers and clients will all notice you take pride in your chosen profession.

Greet Your Client with Confidence Everyone wants to feel welcome and important. The best and only way to do this correctly is to greet your client by name with a handshake and a smile every time they are in for a service. This tells them you care about them personally and value their business. We are in the customer-service business as well as the beauty industry. Clients become repeat clients because of the way they are treated just as much as they do for the quality of the service they are receiving. In a business where there is a lot of competition we need every edge we can get.