
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
Lock & Loaded Men’s Grooming has just released their exclusive men’s educational DVDS. In these DVDS, 3D Sculpting and Barbering 101 are simplified step-by-step systems not based on trends but more so on the basic shapes and techniques that serve all and any looks. These are the foundation to men’s sculpting.
Lock & Loaded Men’s Grooming has just released their exclusive men’s educational DVDS. In these DVDS, 3D Sculpting and Barbering 101 are simplified step-by-step systems not based on trends but more so on the basic shapes and techniques that serve all and any looks. For more information on Lock & Loaded, please visit www.lnlhair.com.
Get a glimpse of some of the lessons you can expect in the how-tos listed below!
HIGH FADE:
Nieves Almaraz presents “Band Blending.” This technique is a simplified approach to fading hair. This technique is used to create easy to see guide-lines in the hair cut to help simplify the blending process. The Band Blending technique can be used in any type of fade from a High-Fade to a Low-Fade as well as on any hair type, such as curly to straight.

HIGH FADE
TERMS AND DEFINITIONS:
Temple: In most cases the temple sits at the widest point of the head and it is the point on the side of the head where you create your Band Blending guide-line.
Two finger width guide: This is the main band guide-line that goes from temple to temple roughly two fingers in width
Line-up: Refers to the clean-up of the hair line.
Against the grain: This is when clippers are used in the opposite direction of the natural hair growth
Open/in between/closed: These are terms used to describe the adjustments made with the clipper referring to the length the clipper will cut from short too long.
STEPS:
1. Using your #2 guard with the clippers in a closed position, cut hair against the grain along the top of head.
2. With the clippers in an open position, with no guard, cut from temple to temple using a two-finger width band guideline. This creates two guidelines. One on top of the two-finger width band and one on bottom of the two-finger width band.
3. Adjust the clipper arm to the in between position with no guard. Start cutting one-finger width directly below the two-finger width core band, working your way up to, but no higher than the middle of the higher the two-finger width core band. This will blend into the previously cut open band.
4. Adjust the clipper to the closed position. Again start cutting one-finger width directly below the previously cut “in between” band. Working your way up to, but no higher than the middle of the “in- between” band. This will blend into the previously cut “in-between” band.
5. Place #1 guard on clipper, with the clipper arm adjusted to the open position. Then, work on the top of the two-finger width core band guide. Cut with the curve of the head into the #2 top. Note: Do not cut too deeply into the top of the head, but more into the beginning of the top section at the curve of the head.
6. With the #1 guard still on, adjust the clipper arm to 'in-between." Start cutting one-finger width directly below the previously cut #1 open band, working your way up to, but no higher than the middle of this band.
7. With the #1 guard still on, adjust clipper arm to "closed." Start cutting one-finger width directly below the previously cut #1” in-between” band, working your way up to, but no higher than the middle of this band.
8. With the #2 guard and the clippers in a closed position, go over the top again to make sure hair is completely even.
9. Line-up: Take your trimmer and start cutting in the middle of the forehead from the highest point of the natural hair growth, work your way out cutting to the corners of the hairline. Then shape the sides of the hairline.
10. Sideburns and arch: Take trimmers and cut sideburn to a point. Using the corner of the trimmer blade, shape the arch from the top of the sideburn to the bottom side of the hairline at temple area.
11. Use trimmer to clean-up neckline. Use medium pressure to avoid abrasions and scratching across the neck.
12. Style using shine wax.
GRAPHIC HAIR DESIGN
Nieves Almaraz of Howtofadehair.com presents “Double Lining.” This technique is a simplified approach to creating 3D graphic hair designs.

Graphic Hair Design
TERMS AND DEFINITIONS:
Hair Pattern: Technique used to create design in hair cut.
Z Pattern: Technique used to cut a "Z" in hair.
Swirl Pattern: Technique used to cut a swirl into the hair.
Double Lining: Technique used to give a 3D effect by cutting over and under your previous hair pattern. Also known as retracing.
STEPS:
Note: Sides on the model where precut to a closed #2. This is the ideal length in creating highly visible graphics in mens hair. A #3 closed, is the ideal length when doing graphics in womens hair due to finer density on the sides.
1. Create a "Z" and a swirl with your trimmer. Use medium pressure with trimmer to create thinner lines, and heavier pressure for thicker lines.
2. Create and connect a backward "Z", into previous "Z" and swirl with trimmer.
3. Next retrace over, between and under the "Z" and Swirl Pattern. This is known as “Double Lining.” This will give the "Z" and Swirl pattern a 3D effect and turn your "Z" and Swirl pattern into a 3 dimensional work of art.
4. Style using styling wax to give the graphics shine and visibility.

MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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