
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
THE TALK - WHAT TO SAY WHEN YOUR CLIENTS: Bring up home color.


If you’ve been working for less than a couple years, chances are you’re the “lesser- priced junior,” who’ll get those frugal clients who may eventually try home color. That makes you the front-line person for keeping them away from drugstore dyes. It’s easy to say, “I’ll just have to correct it,” but clients know that millions of women go the home route, and the internet is full of home how-tos and whys. You’ll be ahead of the game if you let your actions do the talking before they even ask!
- Do a patch test with all new clients and explain why
- Mix 2-3 shades to customize each color. Tell the client what you are doing and why, mentioning skin tone, undertones, maintenance and budget. Mix personalized color in front of the client. Use descriptors like butterscotch and toffee.
- Create dimensional color that works with the client’s cut. Discuss glossers for shine, caramelized effects, highlights and lowlights, facial illusions, color for the client’s hair texture and hair integrity.
- Offer options and always include one that is low maintenance
- Suggest a slight change for the next visit (or a new season) for the client to think about. And make the visit as convenient as possible to the client’s schedule.

HomeColoring-02
HOW TO TALK ABOUT HOME COLOR:
When home color does come up, acknowledge that the ingredients are similar, but home color is created with no idea who is going to use it. So, to work adequately for a wide variety of women with various hair colors and types, it’s harsher, with a higher developer volume than you would use. This way, a woman with light brown and dark brown hair can use the same product. But they won’t get the same results, no one will get what’s shown on the box and if a woman already has color, there’s no predicting what will happen. Also mention:
1. The model in the photo on the box did not do her own color!
2. Home color can’t account for hair texture or condition. Porosity, curl and more can greatly effect color results and hair health. Ask: “Would you use harsh detergents and hot water on every fabric you own?”
3. Application is extremely important. Even a “simple” root retouch can be messy to do yourself, and if you overlap the color, you can get dry ends and color build-up. Then, you’ll have dark ends and gray that still shows at the roots.
4. Ammonia-free doesn’t mean chemical free, and home color could use a large percentage of an ammonia substitute.
5. Ask your client if she understands the “base” of a color product, underlying pigment, and how to avoid getting orange when “just making brown hair lighter.” Explain, this really is chemistry that you studied.
6. You can’t really get a dimensional look from box color. The gray coverage client is most likely to use home color, so explain your choices and the potential pitfalls, and offer easy, affordable options.

MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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