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SEARCHCutting Strategies from Nick Arrojo, Veronique Morrison and David Guerin.
David Guerin
What are the benefits/effects of using a razor instead of shears?
“The razor is a precision tool and when it is used correctly—that is, precisely and creatively— it naturally results in modern, ‘wash and wear’ hair styles,” says Nick Arrojo, celebrity hair stylist and owner of Arrojo Studio in New York City. “Using a razor helps to enable more swing and movement in hair styles; a modern, jagged, disheveled line; the ability to redefine the texture of the hair; thinning out thicker textures; short, messy, and undone hair styles; and beautiful soft-shaped layers.
“Thinking of specific looks, the graduated razor-cut bob is a contemporary classic, and the quintessential example of the razor’s point of difference. Contrary to a shearcut graduated bob, this style features looseness, movability and playfulness. It’s a great way to create perfect face-framing shape and make choppy bangs that drape effortlessly across the face.”
Nick Arrojo
What is the best way to cut naturally textured hair?
“The first key is to understand the curl formation, density and shrinkage potential for each individual client,” says Veronique Morrison, director of education for Mizani. Each curl has its own identity and will react to a snipping quite differently. It is necessary to understand what your client’s expectations are, and her maintenance practices so you can create a look that is not only beautiful but also manageable. Do your technical analysis and realize the reaction of her hair in both its dry and wet state—this will allow you to predict the end result. In most cases, it is best to cut curly hair dry rather than wet, and in its naturally curly state. Due to the amount of shrinkage and frizz that is naturally associated with curly hair, cutting hair wet or pre-straightened can be deceiving and often perpetuates inaccurate results. Remember, it is virtually impossible to cut curly hair with taunt precision. The curl will have a natural fall and will react with its own personality when manipulated. Giving curly hair its own sense of freedom is what makes a successful and marketable style with great manageability and client appeal.”
How can you use a men’s clipper to create a trendy cut?
“Your creativity is endless with the use of different clippers and different blades,” says David Guerin, global artistic director for Oster Professional Products. “With a fearless attitude, you set yourself apart from a traditional hairdresser who is afraid or lacks confidence. If you are cutting a fade, why cut it the same way you did last time? Mix it up with different lengths. Throw a texturing blade on and run that through the top. Maybe use the ‘stab in, stab out’ technique to create chunks in the hair. Your guys don’t want to look the same cut after cut. Therefore, do what you as a professional should do: recommend and show them change from cut to cut. If you trust your fearless ability, it makes creativity much easier and your clients will love you for it.”
Known for his buttery blondes and a technique for highlighting hair with more precision that he called chunking, Brad Johns died on August 27. His friend and fellow colorist, David Stanko, shares thoughts on his talented colleague and close friend.
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