By Ivan Zoot/The Clipper Guy

Waves, Curls, Frizz and Volume. Where to begin? In a recent hair webinar, a viewer asked the guest artist how the
featured technique could be used on curly hair. The silence was deafening.
Then the babbling, stammering and creative fill-in was comical. The stylist
had no answer. Even worse? The shared concept was not adaptable to the
curly client.

So what do you need to evaluate when a curly client comes in and requests
a specific style? Here are five considerations when assessing a textured client
and the appropriateness of a given hair cut to her specific texture.

1. Silhouette: Curly hair grows
longer, but it also grows wider
and higher. It is important
to assess how a given cut,
especially one with layers, will fill out
and shape up as the impact of length,
texture, density and curl affect the
overall shape.

2. Surface activation: The degree
of wave or curl the client’s
hair will display at the
target length will impact the
overall look. What you see is what you
get. You need to be able to see it before
you get it.

3. Color: Smooth, straight hair
reflects light. Curly hair absorbs
light. How will the
lengths of the finished look
and the degree of surface activation described
above impact the overall color
of the finished design? Thought should
be given to a highlighting/lowlighting
plan as a part of the finished look.

4. Hair health: Old hair can be
dry and dull. New hair can
be shiny and slick. A single
strand of hair is older at the
ends and newer at the scalp. How will
the client’s overall hair healthy impact
your intended look?

5. Home care expectations:
Will the client follow your
recommendations for the
use of home care products?
What are the odds that she will be able
to recreate the look on a daily basis if
she does or does not use proper styling
aids and conditioning treatments?
Proper home care is vital to the success
of whatever plan you hatch.

How are you considering these factors
in your design decisions? Share
your success and failure stories. Your
whole staff can learn from them!

Ivan Zoot is the director of education and customer
engagement for the Andis Company
and the founder of Zoot! Hair professional hair
care products. He identifies, recruits, trains
and manages Andis’ team of professional
beauty industry educators.