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Fashion Blue/Green to Bright Red
Dana Dautel (@dana_lynn12) of Salon Head Candy, Cherry Hill, NJ, says, "When my client came to me and told me that she wanted to go bright red after nearly an entire year of being vivid blues and greens, I knew I had a hard ...
March 16, 2016
3 min to read
Dana Dautel (@dana_lynn12) of Salon Head Candy, Cherry Hill, NJ, says, "When my client came to me and told me that she wanted to go bright red after nearly an entire year of being vivid blues and greens, I knew I had a hard challenge ahead of me. Color correction is my true color passion, so naturally, I was up for the challenge. Using basic color theory was really my most useful tool for this correction!"
Here she shares the HOW-TO in her own words:
STEP 1: My client is very good about taking care of her vivids so her blue and green were almost as vivid as the day she left, nearly 10 weeks prior. To begin, I shampooed her three times with Bumble and Bumble Sunday Shampoo (clarifying shampoo) to remove as much color buildup as possible. I then towel dried well and applied 2 oz Wella Color Touch 0/00 mixed with 4oz 13 volume developer roots to ends. I covered with a cap and processed under heat for 20 minutes. I repeated this process twice. This left me with a minty green.
STEP 2: After a rough blowdry, I lifted her natural level 3 roots with Joico Vero and 30 volume. I then went back through section by section and balayaged up to the root with Joico Vero Light and 10 volume. Processed for 30 minutes.
STEP 3: Before rinsing lightener, I lathered it up as a shampoo cap, again using Bumble and Bumble Sunday shampoo as well as a ribbon of Wella 0/34 (red/gold) special mix. This is an old trick I learned along the way to help remove any residual tone. Because of the lightener, the hair will not soak up the red pigment but rather just neutralize any unwanted green tones left in the hair. The most important thing I have learned when dealing with removing stubborn vivids is to always resort back to your basic color neutralization rules. They are your best friends when it comes to vivids! There is no timing for this step, just watch as color neutralizes before your eyes and rinse when you are happy with the tone. At this point I was left with a creamy banana yellow canvas. No toning necessary in this instance as our target was red. Shampoo, no conditioner.
STEP 4: After rough drying, I sectioned the hair into your basic four quadrant section. Starting in the nape and dropping by 1/4 inch sections, I first applied a mixture of equal parts Arctic Fox in shades Wrath and Poison with a ribbon of Transylvania for a deeper shadowed root. Painted about an inch down from the root. I then went back through each 1/4 inch subsection and alternatingly applied Poison and Wrath from previous color down to the ends. I completed this same pattern in all four quadrants. Processed under heat for 25 minutes. Thoroughly rinsed in cold water, no shampoo. Applied Wella Post Treatment for 5 minutes. Rinsed and conditioned with Bumble and Bumble Invisible Oil Conditioner. Rinsed and towel dried. I blew out the hair with Bumble and Bumble thickening spray for volume and lift in the roots, and Bumble and Bumble Straight blowdry lotion for heat protection and smoothing through the midshafts and ends. Finally, once dried and styled, I finished off with some Bumble and Bumble Invisible Oil Serum for extra shine. And there we have it, beautifully dimensional bright red from blue and green, all in a days work. 6 hours to be exact.
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