Let's say you are about to perform a permanent straightener, curl reducer, volumizer or traditional permanent wave, and you have even the slightest concern about the condition of the hair. Do a test strand!

During the consultation, offer to take a small lock of the client's hair, process the strand, and then determine whether the hair can handle the service. You always want the look and feel of really healthy hair when the process is completed.

short-hair perms

The wrap. When wrapping an extremely short head of hair, save the shortest, toughest hair for last. If the hair keeps "popping" out of the rod, wait until you've wrapped the entire head, and then go back to those pesky sections. Apply your waving solution to the stubborn strands, and then wrap.

Wave control. To gain more control with really short hair, change the end wraps to a horizontal position to create a wider base, then start wrapping using light tension and then gradual increasing the tension toward the base. The action of the waving solution softens the hair just enough to aid in wrapping. Saturate the rest of the rods and continue to follow the processing instructions.

Client comfort. After applying the solution, place a new layer of cotton below the old before you remove the old cotton. This will make processing time for clients more comfortable; they won't have perm lotion-saturated cotton on their skin. Make sure to use a base such as Pre-Guard around the hairline to protect clients' skin. If you're using a permanent wave that requires heat for processing, angle the dryer hood so that only the hair is under the dryer, not the client's face. The smell can be intense, so always keep your clients' comfort in mind.

Choice of rods. Consider new texture foam rods as an alternative to traditional rods. Foam rods are easy to work with and allow for more natural looks. When securing, bend one end one way and the other in the opposite direction. Take sections approximately the same size as the rod you are using or wider for a more natural look at the scalp, and design your sections around the final result you want to achieve. For example, if you want the fringe to move to one side, wrap the rods in that direction.

curl/volume reducers and volumizers

How and why. A curl or volume reducer is a great service for taming unruly hair because it makes big hair behave better and is extremely easy to perform. Just follow the manufacturer's directions for processing; the key is to pay close attention to hair growth direction at the top of the head and work with it instead of against it. Reducers are also a wonderful choice for restructuring uneven textures. For a client with uneven curl, a curl reducer can provides a more uniformly straightened look.

Tweaks. If your client needs a solution for uneven curl but wants to wear her hair curly, consider using a volumizer, such as Wella's Voluminate, to add curl to the straighter hair. Great for adding body without the permanent-wave look, this service lasts six to eight weeks. Volumizers also can be used to offer style support. Clients will enjoy a stable base for unlimited styling options because the service adds, texture, volume and movement. Hair can be worn curly or easily styled with a blow dryer.

permanent straighteners

The set-up. A thorough consultation is the key to success in performing this service. So determine how much time you need to book, because you'll need enough time to explain at-home and in-salon maintenance, assess the condition of the hair, do a strand test if needed, answer questions, give a quote, and perhaps show the client before-and-after photos of the transformation she can expect. Also, discuss your cancellation policy, because this is a lengthy service, typically four to six hours, and if you've booked out that kind of time you should expect to get paid for it.

Hand-holding. For a client who is not quite sure about the process, offer a blow-out and flat-iron service so she will know what to expect in terms of look and feel. That way, she can experience what it's like to live with straight hair. You may want to require a take-home regime of hair care products to ensure the processed hair will get the extra care it needs to remain in good condition.

Professional attention. When performing this service, be very detailed about smoothing the hair perfectly during the flat-iron phase. Also, take extreme care when you are applying the straightening lotion to make sure you get the hair completely coated. A lot of steps repeat, so stay focused on where you are in the process.

Author Joelle Ray owns Samuel Cole Salon and Salon Moxie in Raleigh, North Carolina. Ray trains her staff to be experts in color.

Photo is courtesy of Fantastic Sam's.