
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
While the mainstream press is busy proclaiming the professional hair color business is going down, down, down, many salons are actually seeing gains, even in the current economy. Why? Because they’re offering innovative services and enticing their clients with smart promotions and business-building strategies. What’s more, many of their ideas are simple and straightforward. The lesson is clear—all it takes is a consistent focus on your color business to keep it going strong!

While the mainstream press is busy proclaiming the professional hair color business is going down, down, down, many salons are actually seeing gains, even in the current economy. Why? Because they're offering innovative services and enticing their clients with smart promotions and business-building strategies. What's more, many of their ideas are simple and straightforward. The lesson is clear-all it takes is a consistent focus on your color business to keep it going strong!
Time-saving techniques are not only business boosters for stylists, they're also appreciated by overly scheduled clients. So if you can provide high-quality, professional color in less time, word will spread! For Nancy Boyk, owner of Bella Capelli The Salon Spa in Atlanta, Georgia, demipermanent formulas offer myriad business-building options. Her team eases first-time clients into color with Cellophanes from Sebastian, which provide a super sheer "topcoat" for strands without the use of peroxide. Cellophanes process in 25 minutes and "once the client sees and feels how much better her hair looks," says Boyk, "she's hooked." Bella Capelli stylists also do "double duty" with Cellophanes, using it as a refresher for midlengths and ends when retouching. Boyk offers a discount for the service-Cellophanes that are regularly $30 are $25 with the retouch.
At Fresh Hair Studio in Southampton, Pennsylvania, Goldwell North America Guest Artist Deborah Gavin also believes in the value of multi-tasking. Color artists always apply all color in one step-including retouches, foils, etc. Not only does it save time, but Gavin believes it leads to a better-blended overall result.
Joico K-PAK Vero Color International Artistic Director Sue Pemberton recommends a "less-is-more" approach when it comes to color. Strategically done, she says, it's possible to place a little bit of color in a short amount of time and still produce high-impact results. The key, says Pemberton, is to identify the focal point of the hair cut, whether it's the top, the fringe, the lengths, etc. Then target these sections with diagonally placed foils, using three shades. If the base is a Level-6 brown, accent the area with a Level-6 red, a Level-7 copper and a Level-9 blonde. If the client has one-length hair, create a center parting and isolate a half-inch section on each side of the part. Then place three-to-six, back-to-back foils in horizontal sections, parallel to the part, using three color formulas. The color will extend all the way along the lengths and it will appear as if the entire head has been colored. "With either of these techniques, it takes just six-to-12 foils," says Pemberton, "to get the effect of 30-40."
Quick applications that can't be reproduced by clients at home benefit any salon. At Bella Capelli, a lowlighting service called "pleating," adds depth and dimension after a retouch. Using Wella Color Touch demi-permanent color, Bella Capelli colorists create pleat-shaped sections in a brick-lay pattern around the head and apply the demi-permanent color baliage-style, roots to tips. "Color Touch was just reformulated," Boyk says, "so we're trying to use it in all kinds of new services. Plus, the demis are so easy to work with that we usually have our junior stylists do the application, which gives them great experience with clients and frees up our more experienced stylists to do the more advanced techniques."
It's not enough to simply provide quick and beautiful hair color in the salon-there must also be great marketing, promotions and incentives to inform, attract and retain clients. Many salon owners today are using web-based approaches-including electronic newsletters, websites, Facebook and Twitter-to communicate with clients. Gavin combs her schedule for slow periods, for example, and when she spots one, she fires off an e-mail to her clients letting them know that there are a few rare openings. "Once we booked five new appointments instantly," she says. And Boyk uses her salon Facebook page and Twitter to keep clients up-to-date on events and specials.
Gavin also uses online communications to tout her staff's continuing education and accomplishments, which she reinforces in the salon. "We enlarge the photos we enter into NAHA, frame them and hang them in the salon," she says. "We also take snapshots of our staff when they're attending various classes and then put them into books for the clients to look through. It keeps them aware of our training in a fun way."
It's much easier to retain existing clients than to attract new ones, so it's smart to create loyalty programs for customers. Gavin offers points for pre-booking and for retail purchases, which can be redeemed for gift certificates and service discounts. Pemberton suggests "frequent buyer" cards that can be stamped after each visit and redeemed for a free service after a pre-determined number of appointments.

Another win-win for color clients is to offer promotional discounts on the retail products that will keep strands healthy and vibrant longer. "Not only do you build your retail business," Pemberton says, "but you also have some control over what they're using on their hair at home." The holidays, when many manufacturers offer special retail packages, she adds, are the perfect time for take-home promotions.
For Boyk, holiday time is also one of the best times to take part in charity fundraisers, which are plentiful in these months. "We donate products and gift certificates for auctions and raffles," she says, "which gets our name out in the community."
In the end, though, says Pemberton, the basics-thorough consultations, in-depth communication, fresh ideas-are what will keep any color business strong. "I did a survey among color clients who had switched to box color and asked them why," she reveals. "They didn't say a thing about saving money. Instead they said it was because they felt they were not getting the service and results they felt they paid for in the salon." So the message is clear-spend time consulting with each and every client, regardless of whether she's a first-timer or a long-timer, in order to ensure you're providing the color she really wants. Keep your education current so you're always up-to-date and even advancing. And make sure her experience in the salon is relaxing, luxurious and worth every penny she's spending. That means running on schedule as closely as possible, making sure the place is always spotless, serving coffee and water in clean cups and glasses, behaving respectfully and always being mindful of the client's needs and comforts. Easy to talk about, for sure, but often things that stylists take for granted when they get busy!

Photos courtesy of Goldwell
"Finally," says Pemberton, "never assume she doesn't want a change. Clients like change and if they don't get it, they'll look elsewhere. It doesn't have to be drastic, like blonde to black. Maybe it just means introducing a tone that's a bit warmer or cooler. And what's the worst that can happen? She'll say no; she'll try it and if she doesn't like you can change it; or, hopefully, she'll love it!"

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