
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
Sky high shags, crispy curls and lacquered locks set the tone for the hair in the ‘80s-themed Rock of Ages, but at the new film’s L.A. premiere, the stars switched out their “hair band” gelled looks for Hollywood glam. Joico International Artistic Director Damien Carney and Celebrity Colorist George Papanikolas review the red carpet and break down the looks for ROA stars Julianne Hough, Malin Ackerman, Catherine Zeta Jones and Mary J. Blige.
Sky high shags, crispy curls and lacquered locks set the tone for the hair in the ‘80s-themed Rock ofAges, but at the new film’s L.A. premiere, the stars switched out their “hair band” gelled looks for Hollywood glam. Joico International Artistic Director Damien Carney and Celebrity Colorist George Papanikolas review the red carpet and break down the looks for ROA stars Julianne Hough, Malin Ackerman, Catherine Zeta Jones and Mary J. Blige.

Catherine Zeta-Jones arrives at the "Rock Of Ages" - Los Angeles Premiere at Grauman's Chinese Theatre on June 8, 2012 in Hollywood, California. (Photo by Steve Granitz/WireImage)
WireImage
Julianne Hough’s Messy Topknot and Ombré Blonde
THE STYLE: Loose, undone texture.
GET THE LOOK: Prep hair with shampoo, conditioner and leave-in conditioner. Blow dry with a paddle brush to remove moisture and smooth the cuticle. Mist with hairspray, gather all strands loosely, twist at the nape and secure the twist in front of the crown with bobby pins. Mist once more with spray, gently loosen the topknot with fingers and release a few wispy sections around the hairline.
TIP: “Don’t worry about making it too perfect,” says Carney. “The twist should be very casual and abstract.”
THE COLOR: Perform a fast re-growth lift with Joico Base Breaker, creating pale, ivory highlights with Joico VeroLight dust Free Lightening Powder + 20 volume developer on midlengths and ends.

Actress Julianne Hough arrives at the Los Angeles Premiere "Rock Of Ages" at Grauman's Chinese Theatre on June 8, 2012 in Hollywood, California. (Photo by Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic)
FilmMagic
Catherine Zeta Jones’ Languid Movement and Glossy Chestnut Hue
THE STYLE: Loose, languid textured hair with movement. The key is to keep the wave pattern irregular, which ensures that hair looks modern, not retro.
GET THE LOOK: After prepping hair, smooth and dry with a blow dryer and round brush. Divide hair into large vertical sections. Mist each section with Joico Smooth Cure Thermal Styling Protectant. Twirl sections around a large-barrel curling iron, beginning below the jaw, leaving out the ends. Release the hair and continue curling in this manner, alternating the size of the sections and the starting point of each wave to create the irregular wave pattern. Once hair cools, rake sections with fingers to loosen and stretch the curl. To finish, emulsify a few drops of styling oil in your hands and lightly smooth the surface of the hair to prevent flyaways.
THE COLOR: Combine ash and neutral tones to avoid pulling warmth in this rich, chocolate brown shade. On a natural Level 6, apply Joico Vero K-PAK Color 5N + 5A + 20 volume developer to re-growth and Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome (Demi-Permanent) 3/4 A5 + ¼ A7 to midlengths and ends.

Actress Malin Akerman arrives at the 'Rock of Ages' Los Angeles premiere at Grauman's Chinese Theatre on June 8, 2012 in Hollywood, California. (Photo by Gregg DeGuire/WireImage)
WireImage
Malin Ackerman’s Bombshell Waves and Champagne Blonde
THE STYLE: A low side part creates instant glamour. It kicks off sassy game of “peek-a-boo” with eyes and cheekbones, says Carney.
GET THE LOOK: After prepping hair, create a low side-parting. Create two, large vertical sections off of the side-parting that frame the face. Beginning at eye level, place each entire side section in a large barrel curling iron. Rotate the section downward and feed it into the iron. Release and cool each section. Gently brush the hair, taking care to avoid disturbing the wave pattern by tracing the pattern of the wave with the brush. To finish, work a few drops of shine serum, pin one side of the hair to open up the face and mist with hairspray.
THE COLOR: Joico Vero K-PAK Color HLA + 40-volume developer is the “secret ingredient” for creating this sparkling blonde color on Levels 6 to 8. If the hair is darker, make a quarter of your formula Joico Vero K-PAK Color Lightening Booster for an extra level of lift. Process 45 minutes, create heavy highlights with Joico VeroLight Dust Free Lightening Powder + 20 volume developer and process to vanilla/platinum.

Singer Mary J. Blige arrives at the Los Angeles Premiere "Rock Of Ages" at Grauman's Chinese Theatre on June 8, 2012 in Hollywood, California. (Photo by Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic)
FilmMagic
Mary J. Blige’s Victory Rolls and Creamy Color
THE STYLE: “A sculpted style like this is an elegant red carpet option for textured hair,” says Carney.
GET THE LOOK: Create a low side diagonal parting. Section the hair front to back and ear to ear. Beginning in the nape, create horizontal subsections and lightly backcomb each one with a large tooth comb to create padding and light support for the finished style. Work up the back of the head, gradually reducing the amount of backcombing as you go. Do not backcomb the crown section. Mist strands with hairspray and lightly brush the surface of the hair with a medium oval brush. Roll the ends upward and secure with bobby pins. Mist hands with more spray and gently “dust” the surface of the hair to reduce flyaways and secure the look.
THE WIG: Features a rich cocoa base color enlivened by heavy, creamy blonde highlights. “It’s no secret that more and more celebrities are turning to wigs for photo shoots and red carpet appearances,” says Papanikolas, “and my celebrity stylist colleagues often bring those wigs in for me to color.”
WIG TIP: Create a deeper root line that mirrors the look of real hair. Blend the root color gently into the lengths. Also, avoid solid color, which can reduce the “believability” of artificial hair.
THE COLOR: Apply sections of Joico Vero K-PAK Age Defy 7NG+ and 6NG+, each with 10-volume developer. “The Age Defy shades are pre-blended to cover gray 100 percent,” says Papanikolas, “so they never become green or ashy on a hairpiece. Process 10 to 20 minutes but watch the hair carefully,” he adds. “Wigs often process quicker than actual hair.”

MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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