HOW TO: Beautiful, Natural-Looking Ombre
MODERN Facebook fan Shai Amiel, of Capella Salon in Studio City, California, posted this image of his beautiful ombre hair color and we knew we had to track down the how to.
Here's how he did it:
"Brittany, my ombre client, does not like to spend a lot of time in the salon and she doesn't like frequent visits," Amiel says. "She wanted me to give her something that will last for a while without monthly touch-up visits. She does a lot of print modeling so we needed something that would stand out in print and in her everyday lifestyle."
Brittany had virgin hair so it was easy for Amiel to create contrasting tones that would enhance her natural hair color. "I always start at the back of the head because that is the darkest part of the head and it's also the section I needed to be the brightest."
Amiel used four colors for this technique:
#1) EL-T + 40 volume by Redken Fusion
#2) EL-N + 40 volume by Redken Fusion
#3) 8T + 40 volume by Redken Fusion
#4) Igora Vario Blonde
"Work around the head gradually making your way up right above the ears. Begin with a fine highlight around the hairline in the back of the head," Amiel says. "The next section is right above it with heavier pieces. Work your way up and make sure every heavy section will have a finer section right above it to create a more natural blending from dark to light."
The heavier sections won't always be painted all the way to the scalp avoiding chunky color at the scalp. Paint the colors free hand but wrap it in foil to prevent the colors from touching each other. All four formulas are alternated until he makes his way to above the ears.
Now it's time to brighten up the fringe. Start at the hairline with another very fine natural weave. The next section will have a lighter color--grab another section around the hairline and again weave it with a heavier application staying about 3-4" away from the scalp. Again, you're trying to avoid chunky highlights around the scalp. A finer weave around the root area will grow out nicer without a heavy line of regrowth. "I painted about five foils going back from the fringe area. A fine weave around the scalp and a heavier weave mid shaft thru ends."
Next, make your way to the hairline around the ears and do the exact same application like the one used for the fringe area. Paint about 4-6 foils here depending on the amount of hair.
Once the hairline is covered, begin to create the more dramatic effect of brighter color. The next few sections will be thicker. "Take thicker sections and avoid getting the color too close to the root area. Work your way up on both sides until you reach the line of the eyebrows. Leave a little hair in between sections to blend the colored hair with the natural hair." Go back to the back of the head and start working your way up to the crown. Alternate between a fine and a very heavy weave. HIT NEXT TO CONTINUTE READING
"When painting the crown area, I prefer to use more of the darker formula because it will look more natural closer to the scalp and it will grow out faster. Chunky and heavy blonde highlights around the scalp will look very unnatural with horrible regrowth." Once the entire head is woven, grab random sections and paint the lighter color to create a brighter effect.
Process as needed to get the desired color. After washing the color out, towel dry the hair really well and mix a gloss that will get the color results you like.
This is the formula used for Brittany's gloss:
2 oz. of 9G (Shades EQ)
1 oz. of 7NB (Shades EQ)
"I gloss all my highlights even if it's not necessary because I believe in sealing the cuticle layer," Amiel says. "The gloss will balance the hair and lower the pH balance of the hair. I want shiny hair and the gloss always does the trick. I am a big fan of healthy hair. If the cuticle layer is properly sealed, you get a natural shine because the light will bounce off the hair as opposed to greasy products that weigh the hair down and leave a very unwanted film."
WE WANT TO SEE YOUR WORK! Want to be modernsalon.com's next featured artist? Send your work, and info on how you did it (color formulas, steps on styling or cutting method, etc) to MODERN's Alison Shipley [email protected]