
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
"This was a huge transformation," says Cassandra McGlaughlin (@CassandraPlatinum) of Platinum Salon, Tampa, Florida. "It took 8 hours! I want to share all the details about why I chose to do this in one sitting. I feel these ...

"This was a huge transformation," says Cassandra McGlaughlin (@CassandraPlatinum) of Platinum Salon, Tampa, Florida. "It took 8 hours! I want to share all the details about why I chose to do this in one sitting. I feel these colors get the most flack on social media."
Here she shares the backstory:
"My guest came in with her hair all tied up in a bun. She lets its down and its past her behind and JET BLACK! I knew her goal was to get to a platinum blonde. I feel like in these types of services the best course of action is to under promise and over deliver. The reason I decided to continue the service is because my guest had NO previous color on her hair (100% virgin) and she was willing to cut quite a bit of length off. She had no budget for time or money (I’ll touch on charging too). I worked with 2 assistants and originally only had 4 hours booked, so I had to use my assistants to maintain my original schedule. As far as charging, I’m a big believer in charging appropriately for color services. My rule of thumb is averaging about $100 per hour for color corrections. That ensures that my time and product is covered. It’s so important to charge in a way that you don’t have to compromise the steps that you need to have successful color service. I began the color service by taking about 7 inches of length off. I needed to have a shorter canvas to work on in order to maintain my pace and let the hair process evenly."
Step 1: Apply Paul Mitchell SynchroLift Ultra Quick Blue Powder Lightener and 30 volume in 1/4” horizontal sections starting at the nape. Foil packet each section, working with an assistant to maintain a quick pace. Don’t apply directly on the scalp. Allow to process until level 7 then apply SynchroLift and 20 volume at the scalp. Let all process to a level 9.
Step 2: Rinse and apply Paul Mitchell Super Strengthener for 10 minutes. Shampoo with Paul Mitchell Forever Blonde.
Step 3: On dry hair, using the same sectioning as the first application, apply SynchroLift and 20 volume scalp to ends. Apply in 1/2” sections and use a foil overlay instead of packets. Again, use an assistant for speed.
Step 4: Process until no yellow pigment is left.
Step 5: Repeat Step 2.
Step 6: Tone with equal parts Paul Mitchell Ultra Toner Platinum and Ash on damp hair until you achieve an icy cool blonde. Shampoo.
Step 7: Tone a second time with PM Shines equal parts 9a 9v and clear. Shampoo with Marula Rare Oil Replenishing Shampoo and deep condition with Marula Rare Oil Replenishing Masque.
Maintain with 5 week retouches, toning and deep conditioning treatments.

MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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