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SEARCHThere comes a tipping point for many clients when they have to decide whether they want to sign up for the ongoing commitment of gray coverage. Learn how to transition a client into a cool blonde that will blend seamlessly with the existing gray.
This transformation reduces this client’s gray retouch commitment.
There comes a tipping point for many clients when they have to decide whether they want to sign up for the ongoing commitment of gray coverage. This client—who is currently 100 percent gray in front and 50 percent gray throughout the rest of her hair—felt it was time for a strategy that requires less maintenance. Katherine Maddox, a Malibu C Educator and Artistic Team Member and stylist at Meraki on Main in Kokomo, IN, decided to transition her client into a cool blonde that will blend seamlessly with her existing gray.
It wasn’t quick—Maddox says she did the transition over the course of two appointments for a total of 14 hours. And it wasn’t cheap—the client spent about $700. But in the end, the time and investment paid off. “Now she can come in every two-to-three months,” says Maddox, “and as her gray increases, the maintenance will be even lower.”
Here’s the breakdown of the process, supported by several interesting new formulas from Malibu C:
Appointment 1
Step 1: Apply new Malibu C Color Disrupter and work it evenly through the hair. The oil- and alcohol-based formula disrupts hair color molecules for easier removal. “For any color correction, when what was used prior is unknown, I use this,” says Maddox. Process with heat for 25 minutes, then shampoo with Malibu C Undo-Goo Shampoo, a resin clarifying shampoo.
Step 2: Apply Malibu C CPR Color Pigment Reducer to remove existing dye. Process with heat for 45 minutes, then shampoo vigorously with Undo Goo three times.
Step 3: Perform a strand test. Maddox tested three different lighteners to test the integrity of the shampoo and the performance of each lightener before proceeding.
Appointment 2
Step 4:—Apply Rusk Deep Shine Ultimate Blonde Lightener + 20-volume developer at the root and 10-volume on remaining hair + Olaplex, using a platinum card technique. “I applied 400 foils,” says Maddox. “I completed and removed the lightener from the back half first, then applied Malibu C De-ox, which stops oxidation. I left the De-ox on the hair.”
Step 5: Apply and process the lightener on the front half of the head. Rinse and apply Malibu C De-ox.
Step 6: Apply Rusk Deepshine Gloss Pearl toner to the root area and Beige Violet to midlengths and ends.
For home care, Maddox prescribed Olaplex 4 and 5 shampoo and conditioner and weekly Malibu C Miracle Repair treatments to maintain hair health.
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