When it comes to curly hair, it helps if we can all speak the same language… and we can - thanks to the curl classification system, largely credited to Andre Walker.

CURL CATEGORIES

When it comes to curly hair, it helps if we can all speak the same language… and we can - thanks to the curl classification system. The most popular classification scheme is credited to Andre Walker.

The Andre Walker Hair Typing System was originally created to market a line of products but ended up becoming the de facto scheme for classifying hair type. It continues to serve as a tidy conceptual tool that aids hair-related conversations across the board.   

The system adopts a two-tiered categorization of hair which, despite variability introduced by individual judgement, effectively helps convey primarily the amount of natural curl in hair. 

As with any system or convention, there are merits and shortcomings. Curl type or pattern can change with age and can also vary from one region of the scalp to another on the same head. Furthermore, this type of classification is not comprehensive and doesn’t account for other key attributes of hair. Every individual’s hair type is unique and it is always best to rely on a trusted professional to advise, treat and handle hair the right way. 

With all that said, here’s how the curl typing system is laid out:

Type 1 hair is straight hair. Type 1 started out as just one broad category but over time, it has been subdivided into 1a, 1b and 1c to also indicate hair texture as follows:

• Type 1: Straight 

  • Type 1a: Straight-fine 

  • Type 1b: Straight-medium  

  • Type 1a: Straight-coarse

Type 2 describes wavy hair i.e, hair that is neither straight nor curly. There are three types of wavy hair:

• Type 2: Wavy 

  • Type 2a: Wavy-loose 

  • Type 2b: Wavy-medium  

  • Type 2a: Wavy-defined 

Curly hair falls in the Type 3 bucket. Again, there are three types of curly hair and it progressively gets curlier from 3a through 3c-

• Type 3: Curly  

  • Type 3a: Curly-loose 

  • Type 3b: Curly-tight  

  • Type 3a: Curly-corkscrew

Type 4 is reserved for the curliest of hair, often referred to as a coily. Of its three types, 4c would imply the curliest of human hair-

• Type 4: Coily 

  • Type 4a: Coily-defined 

  • Type 4b: Coily-tight  

  • Type 4c: Coily-very tight

A web search of ‘types of curly hair’ throws out a bunch of systems but most are variants of the one described above, in essence. Adopting the most widely used typing system helps get everyone on the same page and more importantly, focus on building mastery over the best suited treatment and professional handling for each category. 

With broad advancements in technology and purpose-driven advancements in the hair industry over the last couple of decades, a person with curly hair can transform it to the straight type temporarily using tools like flat irons or for the longer term using relaxers, chemical straightening, etc. Similarly, straight hair can be turned curly using curling irons, hot rollers, etc or through professional perm sets for long lasting results. 

As far as caring for curly hair goes, the all-time top tip is essentially one word: moisturize! Keeping curly hair moisturized, hydrated and conditioned is the best thing one can do as far as care and maintenance goes. There’s a reason for this - the spiral or coiled structure of curly hair causes the outermost cuticle layer to open up, allowing moisture to escape. This is compensated by using sulphate-free shampoos which don't strip away all the natural oils and by using any or all of deep-conditioning masks, leave-in conditioners and hydrating oils to abundantly saturate strands with the goodness of moisture. 

Extra care is advised with detangling; curly hair naturally tends to get tangled and knotted, using caution to not physically cause damage by forcing curls open and using detangling products go a long way in preventing breakage. Common recommendations such as scalp massages and cold water rinses (to close the cuticle) are just as relevant to curly hair as they are to all other hair types. 

Rest assured that, whatever your hair-type from 1a through 4c, there are vast resources (free and paid) in terms of products, tools, blogs, how-tos, dedicated video content, social media channels, specialized salons and expert professionals at your disposal. 

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Tej Belagodu is a hair enthusiast and entrepreneur. During the Covid19 pandemic, he developed an online marketplace where clients could buy customized DIY hair color kits formulated by licensed stylists based on a video consultation. He is currently exploring a couple of new ideas in the hair industry and evaluating their viability. Occasionally, he writes articles on various topics related to hair. At his day job, he is an Engineering Manager in the manufacturing organization of a semiconductor technology company. He has a Master of Science degree in Electrical Engineering from Arizona State University. Tej can be reached at tej.belagodu@gmail.com.