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This coloring technique is designed to soften heavyweight areas, particularly for thick hair. A block foiling technique is used, with alternating colors and directions. You learn to begin by creating four even cube sections, paneling down the middle of the head to the nape. See more of the steps inside and how you can personalize this look on your male clientele.
























FINISHED LOOK
This coloring technique is designed to soften heavyweight areas, particularly for thick hair. A block foiling technique is used, with alternating colors and directions. You learn to begin by creating four even cube sections, paneling down the middle of the head to the nape. Each section is then sliced with foils, alternating the direction of slices from vertical to horizontal. Colors are selected during the consultation with your client which then are alternated in each slice. The color is applied from the roots to the ends of the hair. These lightening techniques within the interior of the hair style can be personalized for each client.
THE STEPS:
STEP 1: Take a “C” curvature starting from the recession. Using the tip of your comb, draw around the ear then following further into the nape. Clip away the hair above this section.
STEP 2: Using a number three guard, clipper this section, motioning the clippers against the grain of the hair.
STEP 3: On the left side create another “C” curvature; again clip away the hair above this section.
STEP 4: Starting from the front hairline, eliminate length and weight by pulling the sub sections out at 90 degrees and cut to the desired length. No shorter than the right side.
STEP 5: Personalize by “channel” cutting through the bulk of this section.
STEP 6: From the front. Sub section horizontally. Comb the fringe section down and point cut away excess length.
STEP 7: Combing from the crown, bring all the hair forward. Using the underneath as a guide, point cut excess length away.
STEP 8: Move to the left side. Connect the interior and exterior by pulling the hair out horizontally at 90 degrees. Using the exterior as a guide, point cut excess length.
STEP 9: Continue down to the nape following the “C” shape.
STEP 10: Move to the right side where it has been clipped.
STEP 11: Connect the interior and exterior by pulling the hair out horizontally at 90 degrees. Using the exterior as a guide, point cut excess length.
STEP 12: Continue down to the nape following the “C” shape.
STEP 13: Personalize by channel cutting through the bulk of this section.
STEP 14: Take a profile section through to the front, pull up at 90 degrees and point cut to desired length.
STEP 15: Continue vertical sub-sections through the top, point cutting all excess length
STEP 16: Maintain the fringe area by keeping a 90degrees projection
STEP 17: Personalize through the front area by slicing, channel cutting or deep point cutting to create texture
STEP 18: Move to the back. Comb the hair down into the neck and cut the baseline on a slight diagonal
STEP 19: From the crown take a vertical profile down to the nape. Pull out at 90 degrees and point cut to the desired length following the natural contour of the head. Continue vertical sub sections eliminating all unwanted length
STEP 20: Personalize through the back area by slicing, channel cutting or deep point cutting to finish the look.

MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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