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HOW TO: From Uh Oh To VERY PRETTY!
See how Joanna Rivera fixed a box color (by the clients BOYFRIEND) and created an easier to manage shade with more professional results.
September 24, 2014
3 min to read
Joanna Rivera (@j0j0styles) had a challenge. "My long time guest came to me after her boyfriend convinced her to let him do her hair," said the owner of NYLA Hair Studio in Spring Hill, Florida. "I instantly knew I had to take my time with her for a color correction." It took five hours (and she charged @225) but the results are spectacular.
Here she offers the HOW TO:
Formula: 1N Paul Mitchell, 6RV Pm Shines, and DPL Lightner. 10V Cream was used for both Color and lightening processes.
Step 1: My first step was to even out the porosity in her hair so I could achieve the best color coverage . I began with an Awapuhi Wild Ginger treatment to restore health and shine. The entire Awaphui Wild Ginger line from Paul Mitchell was used throughout her service, including Shampoo & Conditioner.
Step 2: When we got back to my chair I power dried her and sectioned her off for a full diagonal back hi-light/low light parted in 3 sections. (two on the side and one rectangle on the top.) I like diagonal back partings especially for color corrections to camouflage any inconsistancies in the hair caused by box color.
Step 3: Blend two formulas: 1N from Paul Mitchell the Color and Dual Purpose Lightner. Both were blended with 10 volume to ensure the color deposited with no damage and for my lightner to to be gentle and not lift past a level 7.
Step 4: I sliced the hair diagonal back 1/2 inch alternating panels, when I landed on a light panel I only put lighter on the dark parts of the slice and did two foils to every one black so my red in the end result can be more consistent .
Step 5: I also teetered tottered back and forth on the head until I reached the third parting that was on top just in case I had to take the back out since it was applied first and has been on the longest. When I got up to the last section I did horizontal parting for more boldness and separation of color. The back two sections were washed out to avoid over process, while the third section processed for another 15 minutes.
Step 6: I washed out the remainder of color and power dried the hair. On dry hair I applied Ink Works Red as a full color application and put a cap on her and sat her under the dryer for 25 min. The heat helps the cuticle to swell and absorb more color molecules.
Step 7: After the second process of color I brought her to the sink to be rinsed and applied PM Shines 6RV and cured it for about 5 minutes. I didn't want to leave the PM Shines on for the full amount of time or else I would of lost the level 7 red vibrancy to the level 6 red violet. I just wanted to add a little more depth to the color. The PM Shines was also used to replenish the hair with amino acids and add shine to seal in the end result and keep its vibrancy for up to 6 weeks.
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