
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
Amber Buxton (@amber_buxton_salon) of Amber Buxton Salon, New Orleans, LA was faced with a challenge. "My client came in with a lot of banding, after another colorist attempted to base break with color. After assessing her hair. I decided ...

Amber Buxton (@amber_buxton_salon) of Amber Buxton Salon, New Orleans, LA was faced with a challenge. "My client came in with a lot of banding, after another colorist attempted to base break with color. After assessing her hair. I decided to treat her in sections so that I would get the most even application without overlap or damage."
STEP 1: Begin in the back below the occipital, addressing the darkest band. Apply Lanza Healing Decolorizer with 40 volume to the darkest band first. Process for around 15 minutes.
STEP 2: Then apply the same product with 30 volume to the band closest to the scalp, staying a quarter inch off the scalp. "I find that swelling will push it close enough to the scalp to get an even application without having to drench the scalp and irritate it or cause chemical burns on sensitive clients."
STEP 3: After processing for about 10 minutes, apply with 10 volume to the mid strand to ends. Process for about 10 minutes more ("or until you see the color become even from scalp to ends.")
STEP 4: Rinse the section. Do not rinse the entire hair. Just the section you worked on. Apply Olaplex no. 2. Do not rinse. Wrap in plastic wrap.
STEP 5: Start applying the Lanza decolorizer with 30 volume to the top half, starting from bottom up. "You can use plastic wrap, cotton, or foils to keep your sections clean with no overlap. I used plastic wrap until I got to the top then switched to square cut foils and lightly laid them over the sections to hold in scalp heat at the top of the head."
STEP 6: Process for around 20 minutes, then apply 10 volume to remaining ends until even. Rinse.
STEP 7: Apply Redken Shades EQ 1/2 09N + 1/2 Clear. Process for 5 minutes. Rinse and apply Olaplex no. 2. Shampoo with Aquage Sea Extend Strengthening.
"I did not apply conditioner since we will be adding extensions in the morning. She has course hair so I know from experience with her that there is no need to clarify before extensions."

with extensions

After color, with extensions, curled. BEAUTIFUL!

MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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