
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
MODERN’s Advanced Academy Tour heads to Scruples Professional headquarters and training facility in Lakeville, Minnesota, for Self-Tour of Haircolour.
VIDEO: GET A QUICK OVERVIEW OF THE CLASS!
Scruples Self-Tour of Haircolour
Lakeville, Minnesota
Format: Theory and hands on
Awarded: Workbook, mannequin head, certificate of completion
Duration: 2 days
Cost: $225, includes all product, mannequin, lunch for both days, transportation from hotel to facility
Student to teacher ratio: 8:1
Bring with you: clips, combs, blow dryer, color smock, finishing tools
Upcoming classes: Visit scrupleshaircare.com/default.aspx, education@scrupleshaircare.com, or 952-985-7034
As early as the first day of beauty school, professionals are taught the importance of establishing a relationship with clients—knowing how to generate clear and open communication is key in developing a relationship where the client feels heard, at ease and satisfied with the visit—and it all starts with the consultation.

Amy Breckenridge Goltz kicks off the Self-Tour of Haircolour.
"Many colorists fall into the ‘fast food hairdressing’ trap—they skip the consultation, grab the swatch book, tell clients to pick out their color, and they put it on,” says Amie Breckenridge Goltz, Director of Field Education and Scruples Academy. “What happens when the client is unhappy with the outcome? You hold up the book and say, 'Well this is the color you picked out. See it's exactly the same color as the swatch.' We need to get rid of the fast food mentality and enter fine dining. 'Let me walk you through our specials. Do you like fish? May I suggest the salmon?' Clients are looking to you to know what's best."
But the challenge is selecting what’s best—and, Breckenridge Goltz says, that shouldn’t be determined by what colors are attractive out of a swatch book. Breckenridge Goltz says colorists should have a step-by-step procedure to determine how to customize formulas, placement, application and tonal family so every client leaves satisfied every visit.
Scruples’ Self-Tour of Haircolor is a two-day hands-on program with mannequins that teaches how to understand each client’s personality and individual characteristics, enabling them to create the perfect color service.
After introductions are made, a model is brought into the class and co-educator Amy Williamson conducts a Self-Tour to demonstrate the process to students. First, the face shape is analyzed to determine how the color should be placed in the hair—if, for example, the client has a rectangle-shaped facial structure, lighter colors would be recommended on the sides to add width, and darker colors in the fringe, crown and jaw line would soften the length of the face.
VIDEO: Scruples educator Amy Breckenridge Goltz demos how to determine facial shape.
Next up is determining the client’s skin tone using Scruples’ skin tone fabric swatches. “Eye color has an impact on which color looks best on a client,” Breckenridge Goltz says. “But, skin tone actually should determine the color section.” Using the back of the clients’ arm, wrap the fabric around the skin, ensuring any blue-tinted veins are covered to avoid an illusion. The hair color shade should complement the skin tone. The shade level should contrast the skin tone and shade levels should be one or more levels lighter or darker than the skin tone to avoid a “visual blend.” Color can contrast or complement eye color—skin tone will always determine the color selection except when the tone is neutral.
After face shape, skin tone and eye color have all been analyzed, the next stop on the Self-Tour is analyzing the client’s personality—is he or she Understated (monochromatic color selections, subtle blending applications, colors within the same grouping), Overstated (multiple contrasting colors, bold color techniques, broad range of levels and series), or does he or she fall Somewhere in Between (monochromatic colors with cold techniques, contrasting colors with subtle application)—this personality assessment doesn’t determine which color should be used, rather it determines how color is placed in the hair and the range of colors selected.
Lastly, the hair is analyzed for texture, density, porosity, previous chemical services, product usage and cut.
“This is a program designed to help you become a better colorist,” Breckenridge Goltz says. “And, what makes this class so special is, after you learn how to Self-Tour, instead of a model or client, we analyze you—your face shape, skin tone, eye color and how it relates to color placement. Then, you get a chance to do something colorists never get to do: create a look on mannequin that you always wanted to create on yourself.”
At the end of day two, students present their finished mannequin heads and receive a certificate of completion—enabling colorists to use the Self-Tour skills as a service and revenue-building opportunity on their clients.
"If you don't have the time to do the full consultation and service the right way the first time, you certainly don't have the time to redo it a second time.” –Amy Breckenridge Goltz
Alison’s Overview
Scruples Self-Tour of Haircolour class is a class every colorist should take, regardless of which color line they use. There are three main points of difference—1: The cost—for $225, you get two full days of education; lunch, snack and beverages on both days; transportation to and from the hotel; a group dinner—plus drinks—at a beautiful restaurant; and a mannequin head, textbook and certificate of completion. One student in the class said, ‘The tuition is worth its weight just in the food provided!’ 2: The education is top notch and the skills learned can be used to make you a better colorist, or, additionally, allow you to use the new skills as a service offering for your clients at an added cost. 3: In many classes, models are used, or you create a look for a fellow student—not this class. The most exciting point of difference is the Self-Tour of Haircolour allows the opportunity to create a look on a mannequin that students have always wanted to create on themselves—using the Self-Tour philosophy.”
While attending beauty school, MODERN and First Chair Editor Alison Shipley documented her experience in her Beauty School Diary blog. Now, she tours advanced academies, using her license to participate in and report on education and certification programs across the country. Have you attended an academy you think should be audited in the new Advanced Academy Tour series? E-mail her your suggestions at ashipley@vancepublishing.com. While Alison’s experiences in class are a good representation of what you can expect to learn, please check with individual academies for complete details.
Visit modernsalon.com/academies for a simple guide to help you choose which advanced academy is right for you.

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