
Rodrick Samuels on The Silent Work, Modern Beauty Education and Why Empathy Wins
MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.
Cirrus Blaafjell (@CirrusBlaafjell), owner of Salon Alta in the heart of San Francisco, specializes in low-maintenance, lived-in haircolor and says, "I was born with shears and a color brush in my hand. I take credit for my family ...

Cirrus Blaafjell (@CirrusBlaafjell), owner of Salon Alta in the heart of San Francisco, specializes in low-maintenance, lived-in haircolor and says, "I was born with shears and a color brush in my hand. I take credit for my family growing up letting me practice on them at the age of 13 and helping me decide to do this as a career."
For this client, who has been doing bleach and tone for 10-plus years, Blaafjell had a challenge.
"She is constantly fighting brass," Blaafjell says. "She just had a baby and needs in a little bit more of the lived in low maintenance hair color that she's does have not to touch up every five weeks. We opted for more a rooted, lived-in blonde that would grow out every 3-5 months. The key with blonde is to know when to take if off, otherwise you are always fighting brass. I keep things simple with blondes and try to avoid too many lowlights as I find they fade to brass. I never mess with natural base color it will always lift warm."
PROCESS FOR HIGHLIGHTS:
-Section from ear to ear over the crown, working from back nape up. Zone 1: Base - full head combo foliage and soft panel babylights with Davines Mask Bleach and 40 volume developer. ("This took about 1000 foils!"). Color was re-mixed every 30 minutes to keep it fresh. No heat used. "I like to have it lift slow and reapply if needed," Blaafjell says.
-Zone 2: From the line of demarcation, in between foils, apply 7-11 (double ash) Davines, blended with Olaplex. Process for 10 minutes.
-Rinse back and then sides and top when processed. Shampoo with Unite Purple Shampoo for five minutes.
PROCESS FOR ROOT SHADOW AND TONING (on damp hair):
-Zone 1: Nape to crown, from base outgrowth to 2 " down, apply Davines 5-11 double ash.
-Zone 2-3: From sides to crown, apply same formulation but 1" off root. Process for 10 minutes.
-Zone 4: Mid shaft to ends apply Davines 10-01, 9-01 and 2 drops of Violet concentrate. Process roughly 3-10 minutes, watching to desired color reached.


MODERN SALON sat down with Samuels to discuss the book, beauty education, mentorship and the habits that help beauty professionals thrive.

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