Icy Blonde: Correcting and Maintaining Brassy Highlights

Chelsea Layton of Michael’s Salon and Spa in Centerville, Ohio, recently gave her client foiled highlights that pop and shine, but this wasn't a one-service transformation: Layton sees this client every 5 weeks for a refresh, now that her client has reached her desired blonde level and tone.

The client arrived at Michael’s for her first session from her previous stylist with a level 5 base and brassy, orange highlights. Throughout the next six months, the client and Layton went on a “blonding journey” to reach her desired effect.

“We are finally to the point where I am not pulling lightener through or using corrective color techniques,” Layton says. “Every five weeks, I’m able to alternate between a partial and full highlight, plus a toner each time resulting in a nice icy blonde.”

For this look, Layton used:

Lightener: Olaplex No 1 and No 2 to build the bonds and keep the hair strong and healthy. “I use this on all of my blondes, you never know what condition or history the hair may have.” Wella Blondor Lightener with 20 volume. “Blondor gives me the most consistent lift and it is easy to tone.”

Toner: Wella Illumina 9/60 + 10/69 +8/1 with pastel developer. “I like this combination because the toner is very translucent, and amps up the shine of the hair,” Layton says. “The pastel developer breaks the base—if there is a darker root, it will give a smoother blend between the root and the highlights.”

Styling: “I use Morrocanoil Smoothing Lotion and Morrocanoil Blowdry Concentrate from the smoothing line for smoothing frizz and heat protection,” she says. “For finishing, I use Morrocanoil Dry Texture Spray just to add more to the curls and keep a long-lasting style throughout the day.”

VIDEO: WATCH HER FORMULATION AND APPLICATION