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Expert Advice

New Direction: The Color

March 29, 2013 | 8:38 AM
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AFTER
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BEFORE
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1. Section hair as shown in a slightly asymmetrical football shape.
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2. Begin the foiling in the back at the base of the section near the crown. Take a fi ne slice and place on foil.
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3. Apply lightest silver gold from off base to ends: Goldwell Topchic 11SV with Blonding Cream Ash equal parts + double 40-volume developer.
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4. In a back to back technique, weave out selected strands in a “spaghetti weave” from the next section.
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5. Place on foil and apply a lightener from off roots to ends: SilkLift Lightener with 20-volume developer.
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6. In the next back-to-back foil, in a slice, apply a medium silver gold: 3 parts Topchic 8SB and one part Topchic 8GB; blended with 30-volume developer.
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7. Blend forward on a diagonal, alternating the three shades in back to back foils, in the slice/weave/slice pattern.
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8. Foils are placed as shown, in small sections, fl at to head.
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9. Now go to the rest of the hair below and in between the foils and apply a soft brown shade: Topchic 6SB + 7MP equal parts, blended with 20-volume developer.
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10. Process for 30 minutes and rinse carefully. Rinse fi rst the hair below the foils and then in between. Remove the foils and rinse thoroughly. Shampoo.
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11. Glaze at the bowl to add golden tones to the highlights: Colorance 3 parts 8GB and 1 part 8SB, blended with Colorance Lotion. Process 10 minutes, rinse and condition.
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RELATED HOW-TO

New Direction: The Cut

Three different Goldwell shades are alternated in slices and weaves. “If you want to punch it up, adjust the formula of the lightener,” Edick says. “It’s a great color design to complement Nick’s fun razor cut.”

To create an asymmetric color finish, Edick had to know which would be the heavier side before coloring. After discussing with Arrojo, Edick lightened the color with multiple shades of highlights placed on a dark base, which he calls the 2013 Tri Color Block.

“We are pushing clients away from traditional ombre,” Edick says. “Asymmetry is key and all stems from an off-center football-shaped section placed internally.”

STEPS

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