Expert Advice

Joico's Head Turner Color

March 29, 2013 | 1:24 PM
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1. Diagonally slice a 1/8-inch parting at the crown and isolate to be used as a veil. Place on foil.
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2. Apply Lightening formula 1½ inches from scalp: Vero Lights Powder Lightener + 10 volume.
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3. Feather to the root to prevent a line of demarcation.
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4. Apply from mids to ends, but at ends, apply asymmetrically, leaving some hair uncolored. Feather.
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5. Continue to opposite side. Note: Place a foil on top to prevent lightener from bleeding.
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6. Foil back to back, placed as shown. Note that one side has more foils. This is to accommodate the heaviness of the cut.
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7. Process for approximately 25 minutes at room. Lift to yellow or orange. Checking is important. If the color hasn’t processed evenly, as pictured, proceed with correction.
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8. Take a dry brush and remove color from lifted area.
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9. Deposit more lightener along the less developed area. Continue to process and check until evenly lifted. Shampoo and condition. Dry the hair.
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10. As hair continues to lift unevenly, enhance the uneven lift rather than going in and lifting the other ends.
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11. Mix two shades of demi color. Copper: Vero K-PAK Chrome rc8 with activator and Red: 1 oz. Vero K-PAK Chrome Really Red Concentrate + ¼ oz. Really Orange Concentrate with Activator.
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12. Recreate the lightening pattern, but now apply the copper shade from the line of demarcation along the midshaft and ends.
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13. Apply the red shade at the ends. Both shades are placed in the same foil.
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14. Again, place foil on top. When doing multiple shades within one foil, you must place foil on top to prevent bleeding.
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15. Process for 20 minutes. Shampoo and condition.
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Pemberton, who celebrates her philosophy of “good things take time,” always uses 10-volume developer. “The only time I go to 20 is when I have a client who has been doing black box color at home. Most colorists would look at dark Asian hair and automatically go to 20, 30 or 40 volume. I use 10 and allow the color to lift slowly with less damage. After the hair is lifted, I deposit with semi-, demior permanent color with 10-volume.”

Pemberton wanted to keep the color off scalp and feathered. Instead of going to the ends in foil, she kept it asymmetric.


Joico's Head Turner Cut


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