Nightmares Collection

Lauren Salapatek | October 1, 2015 | 8:03 AM
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Just in time for Halloween, colorist and educator Deb Gavin, International Artistic Director for Keratin Complex Color Therapy, gets inspired by Tim Burton’s Nightmare Before Christmas for a collection of color finishes that delight and inspire with animated color shot against dark backgrounds.


Starting level 5/6
Background Color: 30 ml 5R + 10 ml 6VB with 40 ml
20 volume
Detail 1: 20 ml 7R + 10 ml RR with 30 ml 30 volume
Detail 2: 5 ml 1N + 25 ml 6VB + 30 ml 10 volume

Three rectangular subsections were created, one off  the high side of the part in the front perimeter, the other two subsections above the ears on both sides. Detail 1 was diff used into those sections, and Detail 2 was applied in slices, throughout the entire section. “Vary your angles of diff usion to create diff erent degrees of the two formulas,” Gavin says.


Starting level 7
Background Color: 10 ml 11G + 10 ml GG + 10 ml 8G with
45 ml 40 volume
Detail 1: 20 ml 9CG + 10 ml 8R with 30 ml 30 volume
Detail 2: 10 ml 7C + 10 ml CC + 10 ml 7CG with 30 ml 20 volume Detail 3: 20 ml KB 9GG + 10 ml GG with 30 ml Activator

In soft diagonal slices, back-to-back application of Details 1, 2 and 3 were alternated in the top and side fringe into the center back. The background formula was applied to all remaining hair.


Starting level 4
Prelightening formula: It’s a Blonde Thing Lightener with 30 volume Toner: AA with 10 volume
Formula 1: 5 ml 1N + 15 ml GG + 10 ml B with 30 ml 20 volume Formula 2: 10 ml 6A + 10 ml GG + 10 ml B with 30 ml 20 volume Formula 3: 10 ml 11A + 15 ml BA + 5 ml B with 30 ml 30 volume

Starting at the corner of eye on the parted side, a deep “S” was carved to the nape. On the large front part of the “S,” Formula 3 was applied at the base and to the midshaft and ends on every 2-3 sec-tions. Formulas 2 and 3 were incorporated every 3-4 sections, using freeform application, like a color board. On the opposite side, the same pattern was repeated using Formula 1 as the dominant base color and Formula 2 as a spotlight color in between sections.


Starting level 6/7
Formula 1: 20 ml VA + 10 ml VV + 20 ml 6RV with 50 ml 20 volume Formula 2: 30 ml 6VB + 10 ml B + 20 ml V with 50 ml 20 volume

A rectangular section was placed an inch from the hairline, a square section below each cheekbone and a wide rectangle below the crown, stopping at the occipital. Formula 2 was applied from scalp to ends. “To create softness, you can add a few detail pieces of Formula 1 into these block sections,” Gavin says. On the remaining hair, Formula 1 was applied scalp to ends.


Haircolor: Deb Gavin for Keratin Complex Cut and style: Laurie Haney
Photography: Babak
Makeup: Michelle Coursey
Fashion styling and art director: Ivie Richman

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