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TRANSFORMATION: 2 Sessions To Platinum

Maggie Mulhern | May 4, 2016 | 11:08 AM

Lance Shannon (@hair.by.lance) a balayage and color expert based at Society Salon, Los Angeles, CA. says "My client came to me with a desire to be as platinum as I could make her. She was a natural level 8 and had about 2 inches of regrowth. Her ends were done by a stylist who used a permanent red based shade. I explained to her this was a true color correction that would take at least two visits. Each visit took about 4 hours and I included a trim at the end. We waited 3 weeks between appointments and I instructed her on how to use Olaplex Number 3 at home."

FIRST SESSION:

Step 1: Balayage using Goldwell Oxycur Platin with 40 volume,  two capfuls of Dioxygen 130 volume developer (*see note below about Dioxygen*) and 7.5 ml of Olapex Number 1, blending into the natural root. "In my head I like to think I created a 50 volume developer. I used balayage film and I don't use heat. I'm a believer of strong developers with no additional heat source."

Step 2: Process each section for 40 minutes.

Step 3: Glaze with Goldwell Colorance 70 ml lotion and 15 ml 8ba and 20 ml 10bp.

SECOND SESSION (3 weeks later):

Step 4: "The second time I chose to use 40 volume with my lightener and the added Olaplex which turned it into a 30 volume." Apply a demi permanent at the root of 40 ml cover lotion 18ml of 8sb and 2 ml of p mix. "We had the roots processing with the balayaged lightener."

Step 5: Rinse and apply Olaplex Number 2 for 30 minutes.

Step 6: Glaze with Goldwell Colorance 70 ml and 35 ml of 10bp. Process for 15 minutes  (zones 1-2) then apply to zone 3 ends for additional 5 minutes. 

*Says Shannon: "If you want a true 40 or 50 volume with Olaplex you have to use a tiny splash of Dioxygen. You never use it straight by itself. Olaplex dilutes a 40 volume into a 30 volume. This strengthens the developer back up. Many salons have this in the back. It goes back to old school hairdressing where you had to add water to dilute the strength of your developer. Back in the 80's you bought 130 volume and diluted it down to make your 20, 30, 40 volumes.  It's often misunderstood and I was once shocked by it once I heard about it. It's safe if used properly."*

 

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