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Aveda Formula: Eclipting Technique by Ian Michael Black

Victoria Wurdinger | September 27, 2016 | 2:09 PM
Color: Ian Michael Black, Aveda global artistic director for hair color | Photographer: Jenny Hands | Makeup: Janell Geason, Aveda artistic director, makeup

Ian Michael Black, Aveda global artistic director for hair color, implements the "eclipting" technique, focusing color at the front hairline to flatter the face shape and complement the cut.

FORMULA & APPLICATION

Natural level 5

Formula 1: Aveda Full Spectrum Permanent 40 g 6Natural Dark Blonde + 2g Pure Yellow + 2 g Pure Orange + 1 g Dark Yellow/Orange with 40 ml 10-volume Aveda Color Catalyst

Formula 2: Aveda Full Spectrum Permanent 20 g 5Natural Lightest Brown with 20 ml 5-volume Aveda Color Catalyst

Formula 3: 1 scoop Aveda Enlightener Powder Lightener with 60 ml 5-volume Aveda Color Catalyst 

Formula 4: Aveda Full Spectrum Deposit-Only Color Treatment 40 g Universal ON + 8 g Light Yellow/Orange + 8 g Light Orange/Red + 4 g Dark Red/Orange + 2 g Dark Yellow/Orange with Color Treatment Activator Creme

 

1. Section out the fringe and take a circular section behind it that includes the point of distribution and sits just above the parietal ridge. Then apply Formula 1 to the bottom section, from scalp to ends.

2. Subdivide the fringe into three horizontal sub-sections. In the first sub-section, apply Formula 2 from base to ends and isolate with foil.

3. Through the middle sub-section, take V-shaped partings, backcomb at the root area and apply Formula 1 over the backcombing. Then blend it into Formula 3 through the mid lengths and ends. To do this, twist the section, apply Formula 3 over the mid-lengths and ends to ensure saturation, then blend over Formula 2.

4. Through the top fringe sub-section, weave a highlight and apply Formula 2 at the base. Then blend into Formula 3 through the midlengths and ends. Fold into foil.

5. Apply Formula 1 to the remaining hair in the fringe section.

6. Sub-divide the top circular section into quadrants.

7. In each quadrant, backcomb hair at the base, then apply Formula 1 over the backcombing and blend into Formula 3 through the midlengths and ends. Twist the section and re-apply Formula 3 through the mid-lengths and ends, then blend into Formula 1.

8. Process 10-20 minutes based on desired results. Shampoo and condition, then tone if desired.

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