Adam McCaffery of Kathy Adams Salon in Buford, Georgia, demonstrates his holiday color for clients. Change up your clients’ color with this technique:
1. Refresh the base first. Here, a natural Level 5 had hoards of highlights from the sun. Brass is banished, using Shades EQ 5N with equal parts dedicated developer, processed for 20 minutes.
2. Highlights are placed purposefully. Once you’ve determined the best place for the part, begin foiling. The widest, front highlight is created by taking a two-inch section or about four slices at once. Moving back, leave 1½-inches between each foil. Shave a half inch off each highlight, so foils subsequently become 1½-inches, one-inch and so forth. Avoid a stripy back panel by finishing with small weaves. Here, the lightening formula is Redken Blonde Dimension powder bleach with 20-volume developer, processed to golden blonde. Tone for a copper glow with equal parts Shades EQ 05C and 06AA, plus orange kicker. Process for 20 minutes.
3. Re-part the hair, based on foil placement. Blow out with a round brush, avoiding bumping ends under, then flatiron lightly to add sheen. Iron curl from the nape to the top. Take a two-inch horizontal section at the nape, then slice out a one-inch to two-inch vertical section from it. Using a 1½-inch iron, create a barrel curl. Continue up the head, setting some curls clockwise and others counterclockwise.
TIP: Leave out the root area. Don’t break-up the curls; keep them well-formed and defined.
Barrel curls meet blonde vivant in this dual-textured treatment.
Photo by Tom Carson.