By Giovanni Cudia, senior stylist at James Joseph Salon, Boston.
1. Section the hair ear to ear and forward to create a Mohawk section with two sides. The Mohawk should be about 2½-inches wide. A crown section can be taken as well, if the client has particularly coarse or dense hair.
2. Starting at the back of the Mohawk section or crown, take 1/8-inch slices out of each 1-inch section, and start with two slices of a warm highlift blonde tone at Level 9. In the next two sections, use a cool highlift blonde tone at Level 10 or above, then continue to the hairline.
3. Using the same-sized slices and sections, start at the hairline of one side section, and continue alternating warm and cool slices, working vertically to the back of the ear.
4. Repeat on the other side.
5. Process for the full recommended processing time, usually 35 to 55 minutes, depending on the porosity and texture of the hair.
Tip Avoid using a powder lightener on natural Level 6 and above, unless there is significant color deposit on the ends. You can get plenty of lift and control using highlift colors and creme lighteners to boost the level as needed.