Marie Ferro owns Marie's Hair Studio in Malibu, CA, close to "The Colony" an ocean-front enclave of the rich, famous and, very often, blonde. Ferro knows something about creating movie-star, close-up worthy cuts and color as she counts actresses, models and other style-makers among her clientele. Here she shares her latest collection, Malibu Blondes, including the steps and formulas.
Malibu Blonde Smooth- Photo 1
This is a great way to set hair, that won’t leave roller marks that hot rollers often do. Gives the hair natural body, shape and movement.
Step 1- Use Phytokeretin shampoo and conditioner to build strength in hair, use a microfiber towel to remove most of the water from the hair to save drying time and when product is applied it adheres better to the hair.
Step 2- Mix a quarter size of each Phytodefrisant and Phyto 7, apply evenly though hair with a comb. Section hair in four sections. Start with 2 inch sections from the bottom of hair. When hair in the first section is dry and warm from the dryer, wrap 1 1/2 inch Velcro roller around the hair making sure the ends are placed evenly around the roller,secure with small clip. Be sure the hair is placed on the base so there is lift at the root. Continue placing the rollers from the bottom to the top of the head using a brick lay pattern.
Step 3- After rollers are completely cooled and removed use a Mason Pearson brush to lightly move hair into place, creating a part.
Use small amount of Phytolisse throughout the hair for extra shine and to calm any flyaways.
Step 4- Finish with Phyto’s workable holding spray lifting hair gently at root for added lift where needed and an all over light spray to set.
Malibu Blonde Tousled -Photo 2
This look is a lived-in style similar to what the Victoria's Secret models wear, a look often requested by clients.
Step 1- Use Phytovolume Shampoo and Phyto Balm so the hair is smoothed but not weighted down. Use microfiber towel to remove majority of water from the hair. Apply to Phytoactif to root for lift. Using a paddle brush, move the hair back and forth from the bottom of the head up in all directions while drying to create a free flowing movement in hair. Use paddle brush to smooth hair and remove frizz while maintaining body.
Step 2- When hair is dry, scrunch in small amount of Intense Volume Mousse throughout the hair. Use a diffuser to work the mousse into the dry hair creating texture and movement.
Step 3- Work small amount of Phyto’s Matte Texturizing Paste into fingers. With fingertips, lightly separate ends of hair to create definition and separation.
Step 4- Finish using Phyto’s Workable Holding Spray to set
Malibu Modern 40’s - Photo 3
This look is a classic that always comes back around with a new twist. Today the key to creating this look in a modern way is to create high shine and relax the set, so it feels a bit more lived in.
Step 1- Shampoo and use a microfiber towel to remove most of the water from the hair. Mix Phyto’s Srong Sculpting Gel with Phyto 7. Work into damp hair with a fine tooth comb.
Step 2- Section hair into two front and back sections. Starting from underneath the hair using a medium round brush lifting hair at the root, smooth out hair with dryer.
Step 3- When hair is completely dry, use a 1 1/2 inch curling iron, spraying Phytolaque Soie to prepare the hair before each time curl is set with the iron. Set hair all around the head within horizontal partings. Start placing the iron vertically from the left around to the right side of head; the curls will all go in the same direction in a horseshoe shape around the head. Placing the curls this way will cause the hair to go back on the left side and forward on the right, which is the heavier side of the hair . In through the top of the head section the hair in half from front to back at the crown. On the left side, set that parting back away from the face. On the right side on the top, set the row forward towards the face. Each curl is pinned with a small clip after each time the curling iron is removed, and left to cool completely.
Step 4- Comb out with Mason Pearson brush working in set wave pattern. Use long setting clips to clamp reinforcing the wave pattern in the hair. Finish the set with workable holding spray.
Step 5- Remove long clips and with a comb and fingers reinforce the wave pattern, cleaning up any stray hairs.
Formula A- Base color- 12BM 20mls+Blonding cream ash 5mls+50mls 40 volume Topchic Lotion
Formula B- Silklift strong, 20 vol, Silklift Conditioning Serum
Formula C- Accent tones- Goldwell Colorance 10BS 10ml+ clear 20mls+60mls Colorance Lotion
Goldwell Colorance 10G 10mls+9GB 20mls+60mls Colorance Lotion
Formula D- Base glaze- Goldwell Topchic 15mls water+5mls 10A,5mls 10V, 5mls10N+15mls 10volume Topchic Lotion
Prepare hair with Malibu C.
1. Apply Formula A- Base color to regrowth, process according to manufacturer’s instructions, shampoo hair, dry.
2. Zig- zag slicing in diagonal sectioning though out hair with Formula B. In-between foils paint in accent tones Formula C, process according to manufacturer’s instructions until hair lifts to bright blond shade. Shampoo hair.
3. After lightly drying with a towel apply Formula D at the root to create a blended gaze effect at the base. After 10 minutes, shampoo
4. Dry hair, apply Formula E, and place under dryer for 20 minutes. This step adds extra shine and tone throughout the hair.
To learn more about Marie Ferro, her work and her studio, visit www.marieshairstudio.com